Spider Mites on Houseplants — Exact Steps to Stop Them for Good
- Foliage Factory
- Aug 28, 2024
- 18 min read
Updated: Oct 16
White speckles, dull leaves, maybe a faint shimmer of web — then you notice the “dust” moves. That’s a spider mite colony, not lint. These microscopic arachnids thrive in warm, dry rooms and can turn healthy leaves pale and brittle in days. Most people reach for the nearest spray, but that only delays the rebound. The solution isn’t more chemical strength — it’s precision and rhythm.
The truth: you can stop spider mites naturally, safely, and completely — once you understand their cycle. Rinse the plant, coat the leaves, repeat on schedule, and they disappear for good.
You’ll stop spider mites with rinse + soap/oil, repeated every 3–5 days, while you steady temperature and humidity.
At-a-Glance: How to Get Rid of Spider Mites Fast
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📌 Quick formula to remember:
rinse, coat, repeat — every few days until two clean tap tests in a row show no movement.
Contents:
How to Spot Spider Mites Early — Before the Webbing Appears
By the time you see fine webbing, a colony is already established. The key is to catch them in the “dust” stage — when they’re scattered, feeding, and easy to remove.
➜ What to Look For
Tiny pale dots on the upper leaf surface. These merge into dull or silvery patches as the infestation grows.
Leaves lose their natural shine and feel grainy or rough.
New growth stays smaller; edges may curl slightly.
Under bright light, affected areas sparkle with uneven pale speckles.
📌 Note on Colour:
Spider mites aren’t always red or green — many appear white or translucent, especially in their early stages. These “tiny white specks” are usually juvenile two-spotted spider mites (Tetranychus urticae) before they develop the darker twin spots seen on adults. They can look like harmless dust, but they’re the same pest, just younger and faster to miss.
➜ Quick Confirmation
Tap Test: Hold white paper under a leaf and tap sharply. Crawling reddish, greenish, or translucent specks mean mites.
Hand Lens Check: With a 10–20× magnifier, you’ll see two dark spots on each mite’s back — that’s Tetranychus urticae, the common two-spotted spider mite.
➜ Don’t Confuse These With Other Problems
Thrips: Silvery streaks and black specks — damage runs in lines.
Scale Insects: Hard bumps on stems. No movement, no webbing.
Nutrient Deficiency: Uniform yellowing, no pale dots.
Dust: Doesn’t move when tapped.
➜ Where They Hide First
Undersides of leaves (thinner cuticle, lower light).
Leaf joints and petiole bases (warm, sheltered).
Pot rims and undersides — favorite adult resting zones.
Plants near heaters or grow lights.
💡 Note on Leaf Damage
Pale stippling forms when mites pierce individual leaf cells and drain chloroplasts — the green tissue that powers photosynthesis. This slows your plant’s metabolism long before any webbing appears. Spotting them at this stage can save you weeks of struggle — rinsing alone often works before sprays are needed. (Rosa-Diaz et al., 2024; Alba et al., 2015)
90-Second Action Plan — What to Do Right Now
Step 1 – Isolate
Move the affected plant away from the rest of your collection. Mites crawl quickly across touching leaves, pots, and shelves. Keep it separate until you’ve done two clean tap tests in a row with no visible movement.
Step 2 – Rinse Thoroughly
Take the plant to a sink or shower and rinse the undersides of leaves and stems until water runs off.This single step removes around 60–70 % of mites and eggs (Ohio State Extension, 2011; RHS).
Let the plant drain fully before spraying.👉 Expect some older leaves to continue declining — judge progress by clean new growth and clean tap tests, not by old damage.
Step 3 – Soap or Oil Treatment
Use an insecticidal soap or a horticultural oil labeled for indoor plants.
Mix or choose a ready-to-use 1–2 % solution.
Spray both sides of every leaf until they glisten.
Dry in shade — direct heat or sun can scorch wet leaves.
💡Tip:
Soft or fuzzy leaves (e.g. Pilea, Fittonia) prefer soap.
Thick or leathery leaves (e.g. Ficus, Hoya) tolerate oil better.
Step 4 – Repeat on Schedule
Spider-mite eggs hatch in 3–5 days at room temperature.Set a reminder and repeat the rinse + spray routine every 3–5 days for two weeks.
💡 Consistency breaks their cycle; strength doesn’t (Missouri Botanical Garden; Spider Mites Web, INRAE).
Step 5 – Check Neighbours
Test nearby pots with the white-paper tap test — even if they look healthy.
If you see movement, treat those plants using the same 3–5-day cycle until two clean tap tests in a row.
If they’re clear, recheck once after your next treatment to be sure.
Step 6 – Clean Surroundings
Wipe pot rims, window ledges, and shelves with mild soapy water.
Remove fallen or trimmed leaves — don’t compost them indoors.
Let everything dry fully before returning plants to their spots.
Why One-Shot Sprays Fail — Understanding How Spider Mites Multiply
You spray, feel relieved, and a week later the pale dots return. It isn’t bad luck — it’s biology. Spider mites are built to survive quick fixes.
Fast Life Cycle
At 25–30 °C, the common two-spotted spider mite completes a generation in just five to seven days. One female can lay up to a hundred eggs in that time. Indoors, where warmth and light stay constant, populations double before you even notice the change.
💡Life Cycle Note
A full spider mite life cycle has five stages: egg, larva, protonymph, deutonymph, and adult. At room temperature, the cycle runs in about 7–14 days — and only the mobile stages are vulnerable to sprays or rinsing. Their wax-coated eggs survive untouched, which is why repeating treatment every 3–5 days is essential (Saito, 2024; Spider Mites Web, INRAE).
Armoured Eggs
Those tiny, round eggs are sealed in a thin waxy coat that repels water and most sprays. When you kill the adults, the eggs simply wait it out. Three to five days later, they hatch — and the cycle restarts. That’s why a single treatment never works; you have to hit each new wave before it matures.
Perfect Indoor Conditions
Dry air under 45 % humidity, still corners without airflow, and warm rooms all speed reproduction (Zhu et al., 2018; Saito, 2024). Windowsills and spots near heaters are ideal breeding zones. Outdoors, predators and rain keep them in check; indoors, nothing interrupts them unless you do.
Evolving Resistance
Spider mites adapt quickly. Their genome carries enzymes that neutralise many pesticides — a built-in detox system. Re-using the same product only teaches them to survive it. Physical controls like rinsing, soap, or oil still work because mites can’t evolve against water pressure or suffocation.Their internal bacteria shift with each host plant. That microbiome flexibility helps them adapt fast and shrug off mild treatments — another reason rhythm beats “stronger” products (University of Utah, 2023).
📌 Key Takeaway
The problem isn’t you or your care routine. It’s a fast-moving organism adapted to the comfort of your living room. The fix is rhythm, not brute force — rinse, coat, repeat every few days until the hatchlings stop appearing.
How to Stop Spider Mites Indoors — The Proven Step-by-Step Control Plan
Once you understand their rhythm, you can outpace spider mites easily. This plan uses the same logic commercial growers rely on, scaled for home care. It’s natural, safe, and — if you keep the timing — extremely effective. This method works across nearly all ornamental houseplants — from tropical aroids and succulents to herbs and flowering species — because spider mites target the leaf surface, not the root system or plant family.
1. Start With a Rinse
Spray or shower the undersides of every leaf until water runs off. Moderate pressure removes most adults and eggs instantly — roughly 60–70 % according to horticultural tests. For dense foliage, angle the nozzle upward to reach hidden spots.
2. Apply Contact Treatment
Alternate between insecticidal soap and horticultural oil.
Soap (1–2 %): breaks down the mite’s outer layer; ideal for soft or delicate leaves.
Oil (≤ 2 %): smothers mites and eggs; best for thick, leathery leaves. Spray until both sides of each leaf glisten, then dry the plant in shade. Avoid spraying under strong light or above 28 °C.
You can also integrate neem oil (0.5–1%) into your routine. While it doesn’t kill on contact, it slows feeding and reduces fertility in spider mites (Alba et al., 2015; RHS). Use it between soap/oil rounds or in lower-pressure infestations. Always test on sensitive leaves first.
3. Keep the Rhythm
Eggs hatch every 3–5 days at room temperature. Repeat your rinse + spray routine every 3–5 days for two weeks. Miss one round and you start over — consistency matters more than strength.
4. Optional Biological Backup
Once all spray residue has dried, release predatory mites such as Phytoseiulus persimilis or Neoseiulus californicus. They thrive between 18–28 °C and at 50–70 % humidity, feeding on any leftover spider mites. Reintroduce every 4–6 weeks if needed.
5. Balance the Room
Keep temperatures around 18–26 °C and humidity at 45–60 %. A small fan on low creates gentle airflow that disturbs colonies and prevents dust build-up (Missouri Botanical Garden). Water plants evenly — not too dry, not waterlogged — since drought stress attracts mites. Wipe shelves, pot rims, and nearby surfaces weekly with mild soap water.
6. Confirm Success
After two weeks, do a white-paper tap test. If you see no movement, you’ve won. Keep testing once a week for another month to ensure no stragglers hatch.
📌Think of this as rhythm, not repetition. Each cycle cuts their numbers until there’s nothing left to breed.
💡 Why This Routine Works
Targets all life stages — adults, hatchlings, and eggs.
Rotates products — preventing resistance.
Combines mechanical, chemical, and biological control — the safest, most stable method indoors.
Improves the growing environment — so future outbreaks can’t start.
Spider Mite Products and Methods — What Works and What Doesn’t
Walk into any garden centre and you’ll see shelves full of “spider-mite killers” promising instant results. The truth is simpler: only a handful of methods actually work indoors — and every one of them relies on coverage, rhythm, and repetition, not on secret ingredients.
✓ Treatments Proven to Work
These are the safe spider mite treatments for houseplants that stop infestations without harming your plants or the environment. Each works by direct contact and can be repeated every few days until the colony collapses.
Insecticidal Soap
How it works: Potassium salts of fatty acids break down the mite’s outer layer so it dehyd
rates on contact.
How to use: Ready-to-use or 1–2 % solution; spray both sides of every leaf until fully coated. Repeat every 3–5 days for two weeks.
Best for: Thin-leaved plants like Philodendron, Syngonium, or Pilea.
Tip: Always spray in moderate light and rinse residue after 24 hours to keep pores open.
Horticultural Oil
How it works: Smothers adults and eggs by blocking respiration.
How to use: ≤ 2 % dilution; apply in shade or cool light, never above 28 °C.
Best for: Thick-cuticle plants like Ficus, Hoya, and many succulents.
Tip: Let leaves dry completely before returning to strong light.
Plain Water Rinsing
How it works: Dislodges mites and eggs mechanically — no resistance possible.
How to use: Rinse under moderate pressure every 3–5 days, especially on the undersides.
Best for: Any plant that tolerates overhead watering.
Bonus: Safe to combine with all other methods.
Predatory Mites (Biological Control)
How it works: Species like Phytoseiulus persimilis and Neoseiulus californicus feed exclusively on spider mites.
How to use: Release 3–5 days after the final spray, about one predator per 10–20 cm² leaf area.
Conditions: 18–28 °C, ≥ 50 % humidity; reintroduce every month if needed.
Why it’s effective: Maintains long-term balance without chemicals.
💡 Tap to Compare: Phytoseiulus vs Neoseiulus — Which Predator Fits Your Setup?
Both Phytoseiulus persimilis and Neoseiulus californicus target Tetranychus urticae, but they behave differently and thrive under slightly different conditions. Picking the right one depends on your infestation level and room climate.
Predatory Mite | Best Use Case | Temperature / Humidity Range | Feeding Behaviour | Effectiveness |
Phytoseiulus persimilis | Active, visible infestations with webbing | 20–28 °C / ≥ 60 % RH | Fast hunter; consumes all mite stages but dies off when prey is gone | Rapid short-term knockdown |
Neoseiulus californicus | Preventive use or small hidden populations | 18–30 °C / ≥ 40 % RH | Generalist predator; survives on pollen or debris between outbreaks | Long-term maintenance |
💡 Tip: For heavy infestations, start with P. persimilis to wipe out colonies fast, then follow with N. californicus to prevent resurgence. Both are safe for plants, pets, and people.
Microbial Biocontrols (Emerging Option)
How it works: Biofungal sprays using Beauveria bassiana or Metarhizium anisopliae infect and kill mites over several days. Studies show T. urticae have weak immune defenses against fungal pathogens.
How to use: Follow manufacturer dilution instructions. Apply in moderate humidity and out of direct sun. Compatible with other contact sprays — just avoid mixing in the same bottle.
Best for: Organic growers or those rotating away from chemical sprays.
Why it’s promising: Targets mites biologically with low resistance risk. Some products also suppress other pests like thrips or aphids (Zhang et al., 2020; Rosa-Diaz et al., 2024).
🚫 Skip These — Ineffective or Counterproductive Treatments
Product or Treatment | Why It Fails or Backfires |
|---|---|
Systemic insecticides | Most systemics target insects, not arachnids like spider mites — and usually don’t affect them. A few (e.g. abamectin, spiromesifen) have mite activity but are rarely labeled or allowed for indoor use. They can be dangerous for you and your pets. |
Aerosol foggers | Miss leaf undersides where mites hide. Can also promote resistance. |
DIY essential-oil mixes | Strength varies too much, high risk of leaf burn. |
Neem oil as sole treatment | Mildly repels mites but doesn’t kill eggs. Azadirachtin reduces reproduction, but neem alone isn’t enough. Best used in rotation with soap or oil. |
Alcohol wipes | Evaporate too fast to be effective. Safe only for small, isolated leaves. |
💡 If it doesn’t cover, smother, or rinse — it doesn’t work.
⚠️ Quick Safety Rules
Never spray under full sun or near artificial heat.
Always ventilate after treatment.
Keep pets, kids, and food away until leaves are dry.
Dispose of leftovers safely — never down drains.
Why Spider Mites Keep Coming Back — Troubleshooting the Usual Gaps
You rinse, spray, breathe a sigh of relief… and two weeks later the speckles return. It’s not failure — it’s usually one small gap in the routine. Fix that, and the rebound stops for good.
Where Do Spider Mites Come From?
Most spider mite outbreaks begin with a single infested plant — often one picked up from a garden center, online seller, or a supermarket shelf. Pre-potted herbs, flowering gifts, and bargain-bin foliage are common sources, especially when grown under warm, dry lights with little airflow.
They’re easy to miss at first. Mites often arrive in small numbers, hiding on the undersides of leaves or tucked into petiole folds and pot rims. At this early stage, you won’t see webbing or leaf damage — just a few scattered individuals too small to spot with the naked eye.
Once in your home, they crawl to nearby plants via touching leaves, shared shelves, or even your hands and tools. Indoors, with no predators and steady warmth, populations multiply fast.
🛑 Quarantine every new plant — even if it looks healthy — for at least 10–14 days. Run one or two tap tests during that time. One invisible arrival is all it takes to start a full-blown infestation.
📌 Host Susceptibility Note
Some plants are naturally more vulnerable to spider mites than others. Soft-leaved or thin-cuticle species like Calathea, Fittonia, or Syngonium tend to show damage faster. By contrast, thicker, tougher foliage (e.g. Zamioculcas, Ficus elastica) may resist initial feeding due to their dense cuticles or trichome defenses (Gill et al., 2024). Use this to guide inspection frequency — delicate plants need closer monitoring.
Even when you treat on time, small oversights let mites rebound. These are the most common ones — and how to close the gaps for good:
1. Missed Undersides or Hidden Nodes
Over 90 % of mites live beneath leaves or deep in petiole folds. If even one pocket survives, the colony restarts. Fix: Spray from below. Use a mirror or phone camera to check angles you can’t see.
2. Timing Gaps
Eggs hatch every 3–5 days at typical indoor temperatures. Waiting a full week between sprays lets a new generation mature unseen.
Fix: Repeat the rinse + spray cycle on schedule, every 3–5 days, until two tap tests in a row show zero movement.
3. Stopping Too Early
When webbing fades, only adults are gone. Eggs and juveniles follow days later.
Fix: Always do one extra treatment round after the last visible symptom.
4. Re-infestation from New Plants or Neighbours
Spider mites crawl roughly 30 cm per day across touching leaves or nearby pots. One untreated plant can restart everything.
Fix: Quarantine new arrivals for two weeks and test any plants within reach.
5. Environment Still Favouring Them
Warm, dry, still rooms accelerate breeding — the perfect climate for mites.
Fix: Keep 18–26 °C and 45–60 % humidity with light airflow. If air stays under 40 % RH, the problem returns faster.
6. Over-Mixing or Using Strong Products
Heavier oil or soap layers block plant pores but don’t kill faster.
Fix: Stick to ≤ 2 % solutions, alternate products, and let leaves dry before the next round.
7. Skipped Follow-Up Checks
Residual eggs can hatch for up to four weeks.
Fix: Keep weekly tap tests for a month after the last treatment. One quick rinse + spray round stops any late survivors.
➜ What to Expect After Recovery
A few old leaves may still drop — that’s normal stress, not failure. New growth should appear clean within two to three weeks if humidity and rhythm stay stable.
💡 Spider mites thrive on gaps, not on plants. Once your schedule tightens and the room steadies, they have nowhere left to go.
Your 5-Minute Weekly Routine to Keep Spider Mites Away
Once your plants recover, staying pest-free doesn’t take much — just a quick weekly rhythm. Small habits make spider mites uncomfortable and plants stronger.
Step | Action | Purpose / Why It Matters |
1. Inspect Undersides | Shine a flashlight under one or two random leaves each week. | Early detection — mites hide underneath leaves where light and airflow are lowest. |
2. Do the Tap Test | Hold a sheet of white paper under a leaf, tap it, and check for moving dots. | Confirms presence; even one or two mites mean it’s time to act again. |
3. Keep the Climate Balanced | Maintain 18–26 °C and 45–60 % humidity. Use a small fan for gentle airflow. | Balanced humidity slows mite hatching; air movement disrupts colonies. |
4. Wipe and Clean | Dust large leaves weekly with a damp cloth; remove debris from soil and shelves. | Dust shelters eggs and blocks light — clean leaves are less hospitable to mites. |
5. Water Consistently | Keep soil evenly moist, avoiding dry-wet swings. | Firm, hydrated leaves are harder for mites to pierce and feed on. |
6. Quarantine and Observe | Isolate all new plants for 14 days and perform a tap test before adding them to your setup. | Prevents hidden infestations from entering your collection. |
💡 Why It Works
Regular checking catches mites before they web.
Clean leaves and airflow disrupt colonies naturally.
Stable humidity slows egg development by about a quarter.
Consistent watering strengthens tissue and reduces stress signals that attract pests.
📌Five minutes a week keeps spider mites from ever gaining ground again — no panic sprays, no repeating battles.
For Large Plant Collections — Scaling Up Spider Mite Prevention
If your collection fills multiple shelves or rooms, it’s no longer just about treating individual plants — it’s about managing a living system. In larger setups, not every specimen can be carried to a sink or shower. Many are too heavy, mounted, or simply too MANY. Instead, your focus shifts to targeted inspection, airflow, and containment.
Spider mites spread fastest in dense, dry spaces with still air and limited visibility — exactly the conditions of a busy plant room. Here’s how to stay in control without losing entire evenings to maintenance:
Strategy | How to Apply It | Why It Works |
Create Inspection Zones | Divide your setup into sections by shelf, humidity level, or plant type. Check one zone each day instead of the entire collection. | Keeps prevention realistic and ensures every plant is observed weekly. |
Use “Sentinel Plants” | Keep one easy-to-inspect plant (large, light leaves) in each zone as an early warning plant. | If you catch mites on a sentinel, you can treat that zone before it spreads. |
Maintain Air Circulation | Run small fans on low across dense shelves or corners. Avoid constant drafts on delicate species. | Light airflow reduces stagnant pockets, disrupts colonies, and lowers egg survival. |
Spot-Treat Instead of Rinse | For large or fixed plants, wipe leaves with a damp microfiber cloth or spray in place with soap or oil solution (1–2 %). | Physical removal works even without full rinsing — it’s about consistency, not volume. |
Rotate Biological Control | Release Neoseiulus californicus preventively every 4–6 weeks; use Phytoseiulus persimilis only in visibly infested zones. | Maintains balance without treating every plant. |
Batch Cleaning Days | Once a week, wipe or spray the most crowded or warmest areas (e.g., top shelves, near heaters). | Removes dust, debris, and stray mites before they multiply. |
Track and Tag | Use colour-coded tags or digital notes to mark treated zones or infested plants. | Helps you stay organized and prevents redundant or missed treatments. |
💡 Tip:
In large collections, control is about rhythm and containment. Even a single undisturbed pocket of mites can rebuild a colony within two weeks under warm, dry conditions — so think like a grower, not a hobbyist.
Spider Mite FAQs — Straight Answers to Common Questions
How long do spider mites live indoors?
At 25–30 °C, a full generation takes about 5–7 days from egg to adult. Adults live around two weeks. Cooler, humid rooms stretch this to roughly 10–14 days.
Do eggs survive sprays?
Yes. Their waxy shell repels water and most treatments. That’s why you repeat every 3–5 days — each round catches new hatchlings before they reproduce.
Can spider mites live in soil?
Not the common species. Tetranychus urticae prefers leaves, not roots. Soil mites you might see are harmless decomposers.
Are there white spider mites?
They often look white, but they’re not a different species. The “tiny white specks” you see moving under leaves are usually juvenile two-spotted spider mites (Tetranychus urticae) before they develop pigment and their dark twin spots. Early in the infestation, colonies can appear pale or translucent, which is why many people mistake them for dust or another pest. Once conditions stay warm and dry, they mature, reproduce, and the typical red- or green-spotted adults appear.
What humidity helps control them?
Keep 45–60 % relative humidity. Above this, eggs hatch about 25 % slower. Below 40 %, infestations accelerate.
Are predatory mites effective indoors?
Yes — if the room stays warm (18–28 °C) and humid (≥50 %). They feed exclusively on spider mites and can maintain balance for months.
Is neem oil enough on its own?
No. It repels but doesn’t kill eggs. Use proper horticultural oil instead; it coats and suffocates adults and hatchlings.
Why do spider mites keep coming back on my plant?
Usually three reasons:
Missed undersides or nodes.
Too much time between treatments.
Dry, stagnant air. Fix those, and you’ll break the cycle permanently.
How long until my plant looks normal again?
Expect visible improvement in 10–14 days and fresh, clean growth within 3–4 weeks under stable humidity and light.
Once you learn the signs and rhythm, mites become background noise — not a crisis.
Final Wrap-Up — Stay in Rhythm, Not in Panic
Spider mites look intimidating, but once you understand their timing, they’re completely manageable. Every outbreak follows the same pattern — eggs hatch, adults multiply, and cycles overlap — until you break that rhythm.
Three-Step Control Loop
= Simple rhythm, total control. |
|---|
No harsh chemicals. No stress. Just timing, coverage, and consistency.
Within 10–14 days, new growth should look clean and healthy again. After four weeks of steady care, the colony’s gone — not hidden, not dormant, gone. The environment stays stable, predators thrive naturally, and spider mites lose their foothold.
📌Key takeaway: Prevention isn’t a product — it’s a habit. A quick rinse, balanced climate, and weekly tap test will keep every plant in rhythm and every infestation minor before it even starts.
Keep Building Your Pest-Free Setup
Explore more science-backed guides on pests, humidity, and balanced plant care:
References and Further Reading:
Alba, J. M., et al. (2015). Spider mites suppress tomato defenses downstream of jasmonate and salicylate independently of hormonal crosstalk. New Phytologist, 205(2), 828–840. https://doi.org/10.1111/nph.13075
Gill, G. S., Lu, H. B., Bui, H., et al. (2024). Short-term responses of spider mites inform mechanisms of maize resistance to a generalist herbivore. Scientific Reports, 14, 19607. https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-024-70568-3
Missouri Botanical Garden. (n.d.). Spider mites. Retrieved October 2025, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/insects-pests/spider-mites
Ohio State University Extension. (2011). Spider Mites and Their Control (HYG-2012-11). https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/HYG-2012-11
Royal Horticultural Society (RHS). (n.d.). Glasshouse red spider mite. Retrieved October 2025, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/biodiversity/glasshouse-red-spider-mite
Rosa-Diaz, I., et al. (2024). Spider mite herbivory induces an ABA-driven stomatal defense in tomato. Plant Physiology, 195(4), 2970–2984. https://doi.org/10.1093/plphys/kiae233
Saito, Y. (2024). Diversity in life types of spider mites. Frontiers in Arachnid Science, 1(1). https://doi.org/10.3389/frchs.2024.1436082
Spider Mites Web (database). INRAE Montpellier. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www1.montpellier.inrae.fr/CBGP/spmweb/ Migeon, A., & Dorkeld, F. (2006+). Spider Mites Web: A comprehensive database for the Tetranychidae. INRAE Montpellier. [PDF available on site]
University of Utah. (2023, August 25). Research unravels how spider mites quickly evolve resistance to toxins. https://attheu.utah.edu/research/research-unravels-how-spider-mites-quickly-evolve-resistance-to-toxins/
Zhang, Z., et al. (2020). A shift pattern of bacterial communities across the life stages of spider mites. Frontiers in Microbiology, 11, 2019. https://doi.org/10.3389/fmicb.2020.01949
Zhu, Y.-X., et al. (2018). A change in the bacterial community of spider mites associated with host plant. Frontiers in Microbiology, 9, 2231. https://doi.org/10.3389/fmicb.2018.02231
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