Thrips on Houseplants: Identification, Treatment, and Prevention Guide
- Foliage Factory
- Aug 26, 2024
- 17 min read
Updated: Oct 16
The shimmer that moves: when houseplants meet thrips
You’re watering your favorite plant when you spot something strange — faint silver streaks across a leaf, a few black dots near the edge. You lean closer, and one of them moves. That isn’t dust. It’s a thrips — a tiny sap-feeding insect that can turn fresh green leaves dull and brittle in a matter of days.
Before you panic, take a breath. Even the healthiest plants can get thrips. They don’t mean you’ve done anything wrong — they simply hitchhike in on new plants, cut flowers, or even your clothes after a garden-center visit. Once inside, they quietly multiply.
Control comes from timing and overlap — three light treatments spaced correctly so each new hatchling is hit before it can lay eggs. The routine is simple, safe, and fully explained below.
Thrips or something else? Quick check before you treat
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Contents
What thrips are — life under the magnifier
Feeding method, life cycle, humidity effects, and why sprays alone never work.
The main indoor culprits — know your opponent
Profiles of key thrips species on houseplants (Frankliniella, Echinothrips, Heliothrips, Thrips parvispinus, and more).
Monitoring thrips indoors — catch them before they spread
Tap tests, sticky traps, lighting setups, and how to interpret results.
Complete control routine — rinse + light film, repeated
The proven three-round schedule that ends infestations safely.
Species-specific adjustments — fine-tune for what’s on your leaves
Tactical tweaks for Echinothrips, Gynaikothrips, Parthenothrips, and Thrips parvispinus.
Biological & environmental control — let nature help (realistically)
How to integrate Amblyseius swirskii, Chrysoperla carnea, and Steinernema feltiae; ideal conditions, reapplication rhythm, and environmental tuning.
Chemical options — when nothing else works
Safe contact actives, resistance warnings, and compatibility with biologicals.
Prevention & long-term care — stop the next wave before it starts
Quarantine, soil refresh, balanced humidity, and maintenance with biological allies.
Quick Reference — Facts, Myths & FAQ
Clear answers to common thrips misconceptions and care myths.
Follow-through checklist to prevent reinfestation and maintain a stable ecosystem.
Verified scientific and extension references for deeper study.
1. What thrips are — life under the magnifier
Thrips are small, slender insects belonging to the order Thysanoptera, family Thripidae. They’re barely 1–2 mm long, with fringed wings and a narrow, pointed body that looks like a moving dash when viewed with the naked eye.
How they feed
Instead of chewing or sucking like aphids, thrips use a single piercing mouthpart to puncture plant cells, then draw out the contents. Each puncture leaves a silvery or bronze mark — what you see as “shimmering” damage. Thousands of these tiny wounds distort the leaf’s surface, causing dull streaks and deformation.
How they grow
The thrips life cycle is fast — usually 7–14 days at 22–26 °C, sometimes as quick as 6–8 days for tropical species like Thrips parvispinus at higher temperatures.
Stages:
Egg – inserted into leaf tissue (protected from sprays)
Larva I + II – feeding stages on foliage
Prepupa / Pupa – usually drop into soil or leaf litter
Adult – winged, mobile, reproductive
Most species reproduce without mating — a process called parthenogenesis — so a single female can start a colony. Adults are drawn to bright flowers and pollen, which keep populations growing even when foliage food is scarce.
Humidity and development
Warm, dry air accelerates the cycle. Research shows that low humidity (< 40 %) shortens development, while moderate humidity (around 60 %) slows reproduction and helps plants recover faster.
Virus connection
Some thrips species can transmit crop viruses like TSWV or INSV, but that’s a greenhouse issue, not a houseplant one. Indoors, where plants aren’t mass-cultivated or grafted, there’s no realistic infection route — focus on stopping their life cycle, not on viruses.
💡 Why this matters
Eggs buried inside leaves and pupae in soil are unreachable by sprays. That’s why thrips control isn’t about stronger chemicals — it’s about rhythm and consistency. Prepupae and pupae don’t feed — they’re just transforming, which is why sprays can’t touch them.
2. The main indoor culprits — know your opponent
There are over 6,000 thrips species worldwide, but only a handful invade indoor plants. Each one behaves differently — and recognizing which type you have helps you choose the right approach.
Species | Common Hosts & Damage | Notes |
|---|---|---|
Frankliniella occidentalis (Western flower thrips) | Flowers, buds, new leaves; pale streaks and distorted blooms | Highly resistant to many sprays; 10-day cycle @ 25 °C |
Thrips tabaci (Onion thrips) | Occasionally on ornamentals; streaked leaves | Can carry plant viruses, but not relevant indoors |
Heliothrips haemorrhoidalis (Greenhouse thrips) | Palms, broad-leaf evergreens; bronzed scarring + black dots | Pupates on leaves, not in soil |
Echinothrips americanus (Impatiens thrips) | Undersides of shade plants; silvered lower leaves | Moves fast, hides deep in canopy |
Thrips parvispinus | Anthurium, Hoya, Spathiphyllum | Extremely fast breeder; keep isolated for at least three weeks after visible control. Currently under EU quarantine monitoring due to rapid spread. |
Parthenothrips dracaenae | Dracaena, palms | Lives inside leaf sheaths, thrives year-round indoors |
Gynaikothrips ficorum / uzeli | Ficus benjamina, F. microcarpa | Causes curled, gall-like leaves; remove affected parts |
Thrips often enter homes through global plant trade, especially ornamental imports from tropical nurseries. Once indoors, they adapt quickly to steady warmth and low airflow — conditions most houseplants share.
📌 Key takeaway: Some species pupate in soil, others on leaves. Knowing which saves time and prevents wasted treatments.
3. Monitoring thrips indoors — catch them before they spread
Spotting thrips early saves weeks of frustration later. Because they’re tiny, quick, and hide under leaves, regular checks matter more than any single product. Think of monitoring as your indoor plant alarm system — simple habits that stop infestations before they spread.
Your weekly detection routine
1. The tap test
Hold a white sheet of paper under several leaves and tap gently. If you see tiny beige or dark specks that move, that’s thrips — even one or two means it’s time to act.
2. Visual inspection
Use a flashlight or your phone light once a week to check:
undersides of leaves
along midribs and buds
inside petiole bases and leaf axils
💡 They prefer dry, hidden areas out of direct light.
3. Sticky traps: your early-warning system
Blue cards catch the most thrips because they’re drawn to short-wavelength light (Lopez-Reyes et al., 2022).
Yellow cards can perform just as well in bright rooms, depending on glue and light type.
Placement:
Keep traps level with or slightly above the plant canopy — roughly one per 1–2 m².
Move them weekly between plant groups to pinpoint where the problem starts.
Use a small hygrometer to monitor humidity — low relative humidity combined with warmth makes thrips develop faster.
How to read the traps:
1–2 thrips in a week = early warning — start inspection and cleaning.
10+ thrips = active infestation — begin full treatment. Replace traps every 3–4 weeks or sooner if covered in debris.
💡 Note: Sticky traps also catch fungus gnats — thrips are slim and move fast, while gnats are slower and rounder.
Advanced setups
For grow cabinets or larger collections, add MI (methyl isonicotinate) lures combined with blue LED light for higher sensitivity (Tefera, 2024). Avoid using MI lures near fungal biocontrols such as Beauveria or Metarhizium — the vapors inhibit spore germination.
Tracking your progress
Keep a quick log or photos of your traps. A rising count after week 2 means hidden stages are still hatching — stay on schedule until numbers drop.
Once you’ve confirmed activity, move straight to the three-step control routine below.
4. Complete control routine — rinse + light film, repeated: the schedule that works
Thrips control depends on timing, not toughness. Every treatment must overlap the next generation before adults can reproduce. Follow this simple schedule and you’ll stop them completely.
Step-by-step schedule
Day 0 – Reset
Isolate affected plants.
Remove old flowers and pollen — they keep adults feeding.
Rinse leaves and undersides gently with lukewarm water; strong pressure tears soft tissue.
Replace the top 1–2 cm of soil to remove hidden pupae. That step matters because several thrips species pupate in soil — removing the top layer cuts off their next wave.
Apply insecticidal soap or horticultural oil (1–2 %) until leaves glisten — even coverage is what kills, not concentration.
💡 Patch-test on one leaf first. Some plants (especially succulents or thin-leaf aroids) can react to oil or soap residues.
Day 5–7 – Follow-up
Repeat the rinse + light film process.
Wipe shelves and pot rims.
Vacuum debris or fallen leaves — thrips pupae can survive there.
Seal collected soil or waste in a bag before binning to stop reinfestation.
Day 10–14 – Final cycle
Do a third full rinse + light film treatment.
Check traps and leaf undersides again.
If adults persist, switch to a different safe contact agent — another brand of soap or oil, not a systemic chemical.
💡 Why it works
Eggs inside leaves escape the first spray. By repeating every 5–7 days, you target the larvae as they emerge — breaking the cycle before reproduction restarts.
How soaps and oils act:
Soaps dissolve the waxy layer on insect bodies, causing dehydration.
Oils suffocate by coating the surface and blocking respiration pores.
Both methods are safe when used as labeled and far less harmful than systemic chemicals.
✗ Avoid common mistakes
Missing a round gives the next generation a head start — stick to the schedule strictly.
Stronger mix ≠ better kill — it burns foliage first.
“Systemic cures” don’t reach thrips eggs and are unnecessary indoors.
Always spray in indirect light to avoid leaf spotting.
What to expect
With consistent timing, most infestations collapse within 2–3 weeks.
Damaged leaves stay scarred, but new growth should emerge clean.
Keep at least one blue trap up for two more weeks to confirm the population has collapsed.
Safety & reassurance
When used at home strength, soaps and oils are safe for people, pets, and indoor air quality. Just follow label directions and keep treated leaves away from direct sun until dry.
Once you’ve completed this cycle, you can fine-tune treatment for specific thrips species or introduce biological helpers — covered next.
5. Species-specific adjustments — fine-tune for what’s on your leaves
Not all thrips behave the same. Some pupate in soil, others on leaves; some hide deep in leaf folds, others stay on flowers. Adjusting your control rhythm to species saves effort and speeds recovery. Below is a refined guide — including how biological products fit in.
If you can’t identify the exact species, follow the full three-round rinse routine and prune visibly damaged leaves. That alone controls almost all indoor thrips cases.
Species | Adjustment | Reason / Practical Tip |
Frankliniella occidentalis (Western flower thrips) | Focus treatments on new growth and flowers; remove blooms after each rinse cycle. Release Amblyseius swirskii 5–7 days later. | Prefers young tissue and pollen. Eggs are deep in tissue; predators target larvae that hatch later. |
Echinothrips americanus (Impatiens thrips) | Spray from below and place low-level blue traps near pots. Apply A. swirskii to lower canopy after the second round. | Feeds mainly under shaded leaves; larvae stay low in the canopy and are easily missed. |
Heliothrips haemorrhoidalis (Greenhouse thrips) | Increase spray coverage on both leaf sides and prune bronzed foliage. Follow with Chrysoperla carnea release. | Pupates directly on leaves, so removing bronzed ones cuts off new generations. |
Gynaikothrips ficorum / G. uzeli (Ficus gall thrips) | Prune and discard galled leaves; treat fresh new growth. Apply A. swirskii after pruning. | Larvae develop inside leaf galls, where sprays can’t reach. Only new growth can be protected. |
Parthenothrips dracaenae | Direct sprays deep into leaf bases and sheaths; repeat weekly. | Hides between tight monocot leaf folds. Consistent mechanical treatment is most effective. |
Thrips parvispinus | Maintain strict isolation for at least three weeks after visible control; reapply A. swirskii and S. feltiae every 3–4 weeks. | Extremely fast life cycle; easily re-establishes if even a few survive in soil or sheaths. |
Thrips tabaci (Onion thrips) | Increase humidity and steady airflow; apply light oil film to lower foliage. | Prefers dry, warm air and thin-leaved hosts; humidity above 55 % slows reproduction. |
💡 Tip: When you’re unsure of the species, treat all stages rhythmically (rinse + soap/oil ×3) and follow up with A. swirskii for foliage larvae plus S. feltiae in soil — this combination covers nearly all thrips species found on indoor plants.
6. Biological & environmental control — let nature help (realistically)
Natural predators prevent rebounds rather than erase outbreaks. Use them only after at least two full contact-treatment rounds, so they enter a cleaner, more stable environment. Biological control is about timing, life-cycle targeting, and steady conditions, not instant results.
Predatory mites & bugs
Amblyseius swirskii – Works best between 20–32 °C and at humidity above 50 %. It lives for roughly 2–4 weeks, depending on climate. This mite preys on first-instar thrips larvae, so it’s ideal as a follow-up once adult populations have been reduced through rinsing and sticky traps.
Chrysoperla carnea – The larvae of the green lacewing are broad-spectrum predators, feeding on thrips larvae, aphids, and young scale insects. They perform well in mixed pest situations and tolerate a wide temperature range.
➜ Reapplication: Refresh populations every 4–6 weeks if pest pressure remains.
Soil / substrate predators
Steinernema feltiae – Targets larvae and pupae developing in soil or substrate. Functions best in moist medium and temperatures between 10–28 °C (optimal 15–25 °C). Reapply every ≈4 weeks if pest pressure persists. Foliage Factory
Targeted use — match each agent to thrips species and life stage
Here’s how biological agents they map to specific thrips scenarios:
Amblyseius swirskii – Best used after you’ve knocked down adults. It attacks first-instar larvae, making it particularly effective against Echinothrips americanus and Frankliniella occidentalis on indoor plants.
Chrysoperla carnea – Lacewing larvae are generalists; they control thrips larvae along with aphids and other soft-bodied pests, ideal for mixed infestations.
Steinernema feltiae – Beneficial nematodes that target pupal and soil-dwelling stages, crucial for species that drop into the substrate to pupate.
📌 Practical combination: After pruning galled Ficus leaves, release A. swirskii on new foliage and apply S. feltiae to the pot substrate. This layered release interrupts multiple life stages and stabilises the environment against rebound infestations.
💡 Best shared conditions for all beneficials:
Maintain 20–32 °C and relative humidity >50 %. Reintroduce or top up populations if sticky-trap counts begin to rise.
Fungal biopesticides
Beauveria bassiana / Metarhizium anisopliae – Effective biological fungi requiring ≥70 % RH to germinate and infect. In most heated homes, air is too dry for consistent success. Do not use simultaneously with methyl isoeugenol (MI) lures — the vapor can inhibit fungal spore viability (Tefera, 2024).
Environmental tuning
Keep relative humidity around 55–65 % — even modest increases slow thrips development.
Use balanced fertilizer; avoid excess nitrogen that promotes soft, pest-prone tissue.
Maintain gentle, consistent airflow to reduce stagnant microclimates.
Keep substrate evenly moist, avoiding both drought stress and saturation.
🔗 To understand how steady humidity suppresses pests and supports leaf recovery, read Mastering Humidity for Healthier Houseplants.
Practical deployment & advice
Sourcing & release: Foliage Factory ships beneficials fresh — release them shortly after completing your contact-treatment phase.
Predator lifespan: Most species live only a few weeks; maintain monitoring and reintroduce if new thrips appear.
Signs of success: Fewer new leaf streaks, declining trap counts, slower movement. Beneficials may remain unseen — stable foliage is the best proof.
Compatibility: Avoid strong chemical sprays. Use only mild soaps or oils and wait 5–7 days before introducing beneficials.
🔗 For an in-depth look at how predatory mites, nematodes, and lacewings work together indoors, visit Beneficial Insects & Biological Pest Control.
7. Chemical options — when nothing else works
If you’ve completed several full three-round cycles and thrips still persist, a carefully timed chemical reset can help — but the rule is precision, not power. Chemicals don’t fix what timing can; they only speed recovery when used correctly.
Safe contact actives for indoor plants
Potassium-based insecticidal soaps – break down the insect’s outer membrane; short residual, safe for home use.
Highly refined paraffinic oils – smother larvae and adults; low odor, quick evaporation.
Plant-derived fatty-acid products – same action as soaps; minimal residue.
Mix strength: 1–2 %. Spray both leaf sides until lightly glistening.
Interval: wait 5–7 days between rounds to avoid stress.
Tip: use gentle pressure; heavy spray blasts can tear leaves.
❗ Actives to handle with caution
Pyrethrins – fast knock-down, but resistance in Frankliniella occidentalis is common.
Spinosad – once effective, now widely resisted due to UGT-enzyme detoxification (Bierman et al., 2024).
Neonicotinoids and other systemics still miss eggs and leave residues that linger unnecessarily indoors — skip them.
⚠️ Safety & rotation
Rotate different IRAC groups if you treat more than twice a season.
Always spray in good ventilation or outside on a balcony.
Keep pets and children out until leaves dry.
Clean sprayer after use – rinse nozzle and bottle with warm water to prevent residue burn or clogging.
Rinse plants 24 h later before reintroducing beneficials such as Amblyseius swirskii or Chrysoperla carnea.
✗ Avoid completely
Systemic drenches, DIY alcohol mixes, or combining different actives – these increase phytotoxicity without improving results.
📌 Key message: Use safe actives sparingly, at correct intervals, then switch back to biological and natural rhythm control.Once numbers drop, switch back to gentle soaps, oils, or biological methods — they maintain control safely without chemical buildup.
8. Prevention & long-term care — stop the next wave before it starts
Keeping thrips away is easier than fighting them twice. A few steady habits — cleanliness, moderation, and routine checks — keep your collection stable year-round.
Routine hygiene
Quarantine new plants 2–3 weeks; inspect weekly.
Check bouquets or gift flowers before placing near your collection.
Wipe shelves, fans, and pots monthly to remove dust and eggs.
Refresh topsoil quarterly; never reuse old soil from infested pots.
Seal discarded leaves in bags before binning.
Balanced growth
Moderate fertilizer — avoid high-nitrogen “growth boosters.”
Keep a steady mid-range humidity around 55–60 % and balanced temperature between 20 and 25 °C; avoid extremes that speed up thrips breeding.
Provide bright, stable light and gentle airflow; avoid heat vents and draughts.
Monitoring routine
Maintain at least one blue sticky trap in the room year-round.
Move it monthly and replace or clean every 4 weeks for accuracy.
Photograph traps before replacing – it helps track trends.
If counts rise, restart the rinse-film routine early.
Biological maintenance
Re-apply Steinernema feltiae every 4–6 weeks to keep soil pupae suppressed.
Release Amblyseius swirskii or Chrysoperla carnea every 2–3 months as preventive guardians, especially for thrips-prone genera like Ficus, Dracaena, Anthurium.
Always wait ≥ 5 days after any soap or oil treatment before releasing.
Predator activity naturally slows in winter when light and temperature drop — fewer sightings don’t mean they’re gone.
Seasonal care
Refresh biologicals and traps at the start of each growing season (spring).
Do a mid-season humidity and light check; adjust if conditions have dried out over winter.
Know when prevention works
You’re on track if:
Sticky traps stay mostly clear for 4 weeks.
New leaves emerge spotless and untwisted.
No fresh silver streaks appear under strong light.
If these hold true, your ecosystem is balanced — keep the same rhythm.
If they reappear
Act fast – one rinse + mild soap film usually stops them.
Replace traps and re-introduce beneficials simultaneously.
Stay consistent rather than escalating strength.
📌 Remember: Prevention isn’t about doing more; it’s about doing small things consistently. Thrips need neglect to win — attention keeps them out.
🔗 If you’re building a full pest prevention routine, our guide on aphids and other sap-feeding insects shows the same principles of inspection, timing, and gentle control.
9. Quick Reference — Facts, Myths & FAQ
Thrips questions flood every plant forum — and most answers online are half-truths. Here’s a clean, fact-checked reference that separates what’s real from what just sounds right.
Thrips FAQ
Are thrips dangerous to humans or pets?
No. Thrips don’t bite, infest skin, or harm animals. They feed exclusively on plant tissue.
Do thrips fly?
Barely. They can glide between nearby plants on light air currents but can’t sustain flight.
Why do leaves turn silvery or bronze?
Each streak marks a cluster of collapsed cells where thrips pierced the surface and drained the sap.
Will repotting remove them?
Only partly — it removes soil-pupating stages, not eggs inside leaves. Always combine with the three-round schedule.
Can I use neem oil?
Yes. Treat it like any horticultural oil: apply thinly, repeat weekly, and keep out of direct sunlight to avoid spotting.
Can I spray vinegar or alcohol to kill them?
No. Homemade mixes burn foliage and don’t reach eggs. Stick to safe soaps, oils, or biological methods.
How long until I see improvement?
New leaves should grow clean within two to three weeks, though slower species (like Philodendron or Anthurium) may take longer.
How long do beneficial insects stay active?
Usually 2–4 weeks, depending on warmth and humidity. Reintroduce them when new thrips start appearing on traps.
What’s the best natural prevention?
Routine cleaning, moderate humidity, and regular biological reinforcements such as Amblyseius swirskii or Steinernema feltiae.
Fact vs. Myth
Myth | Fact |
|---|---|
“Thrips only attack weak plants.” | They feed on healthy plants too — 200 + species are hosts. |
“One systemic spray kills all stages.” | Eggs and soil pupae remain untouched. |
“Dry air keeps pests away.” | It accelerates thrips development (Schneeberger et al., 2025). |
“Yellow traps don’t work.” | They can, depending on glue type and lighting (Lopez-Reyes et al., 2022). |
“Spinosad always works.” | Resistance is now widespread (Bierman et al., 2024). |
“You can wipe them off once and they’re gone.” | Hidden life stages re-emerge unless you treat in rhythm. |
“Vinegar or alcohol sprays are safe.” | False — they burn leaves and harm beneficial microbes. |
💡Quick progress check: If no new streaks appear and traps stay clear for 14 days, your control routine is working.
10. Keep the Rhythm Going
Thrips don’t disappear through luck — they stop when the routine keeps running. You’ve learned their rhythm: egg, larva, pupa, adult — and every rinse or trap breaks that sequence a little further.
What comes next isn’t battle; it’s maintenance. Check traps, refresh humidity, and repeat gentle care before problems return. Your consistency rewrites their cycle.
Follow-through checklist
Inspect leaves weekly and log changes.
Replace sticky traps monthly.
Keep humidity steady around 55 – 60 %.
Add biological partners like Amblyseius swirskii, Steinernema feltiae, or Chrysoperla carnea as a preventive rhythm.
Once your plants are pest-free, keep them that way with steady airflow and balanced moisture—explained step-by-step in Humidity and Airflow: Setting the Perfect Indoor Climate.
📌 Reminder: Good plant care isn’t reaction — it’s routine. Stay on schedule, and thrips run out of life stages to exploit — the infestation simply ends.
11. Sources and Further Reading
Bierman, T. V., Vrieling, K., van Zwieten, R., Klinkhamer, P. G. L., & Bezemer, T. M. (2024). Adhesive droplets made from plant-derived oils for control of western flower thrips. Journal of Pest Science, 97(6), 2175–2188. https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s10340-024-01755-4
Gupta, S. K., Shirsat, D. V., Karuppaiah, V., Divekar, P. A., & Mahajan, V. (2025). Unravelling the complete mitochondrial genomes of Thrips tabaci (Lindeman) and Thrips parvispinus Karny (Thysanoptera: Thripidae) and their phylogenetic implications. Frontiers in Insect Science, 5, 1536160. https://www.frontiersin.org/journals/insect-science/articles/10.3389/finsc.2025.1536160/full
Joseph, S. V., Braman, S. K., Hudson, W. G., & Nair, S. (2025). Biology and management of thrips affecting the production nursery and landscape (Circular 1158). University of Georgia Cooperative Extension. https://fieldreport.caes.uga.edu/publications/C1158/biology-and-management-of-thrips-affecting-the-production-nursery-and-landscape/
Lopez-Reyes, K., Armstrong, K. F., van Tol, R. W. H. M., Teulon, D. A. J., & Bok, M. J. (2022). Colour vision in thrips (Thysanoptera). Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society B: Biological Sciences, 377(1862), 20210282. https://royalsocietypublishing.org/doi/10.1098/rstb.2021.0282
Marchiori, C. H., Santana, M. V. O., & Malheiros, K. P. (2024). Thrips (Insecta: Thysanoptera: Thripidae) [Definition]. Qeios. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/379347652_Thrips_Insecta_Thysanoptera_Thripidae
Martin, C. (2019, January 28). Protecting houseplants from pests. Missouri Botanical Garden – Discover + Share Blog. https://discoverandshare.org/2019/01/28/protecting-houseplants-from-pests/
Missouri Botanical Garden. (n.d.). Thrips (Advice, tips & resources). Missouri Botanical Garden. https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/insects-pests-and-problems/insects/thrips
Mound, L. A., Wang, Z., Lima, É. F. B., & Marullo, R. (2022). Problems with the concept of “pest” among the diversity of pestiferous thrips. Insects, 13(1), 61. https://www.mdpi.com/2075-4450/13/1/61
Nursery Management. (2021, June 4). Thrips (Thysanoptera: Thripidae). Nursery Management Magazine. https://www.nurserymag.com/article/thrips-thysanoptera-thripidae/
Pop, C., Terry, I., Mound, L. A., & van der Kooi, C. J. (2025). Tiny but significant: On the importance of thrips as pollinators. Annals of Botany, 136(4), 669–682. https://academic.oup.com/aob/article/136/4/669/8115437
Rotenberg, D., Baumann, A. A., Ben-Mahmoud, S., Christiaens, O., Dermauw, W., Ioannidis, P., … Richards, S. (2020). Genome-enabled insights into the biology of thrips as crop pests. BMC Biology, 18, 142. https://bmcbiol.biomedcentral.com/articles/10.1186/s12915-020-00862-9
Schneeberger, L., Sutter, L., Schenk, N. V., & Norgrove, L. (2025). Managing thrips in strawberries: How effective are insecticide-free options? A meta-analysis. Biological Control, 204, 105744. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1049964425000544
Stopar, K., Trdan, S., & Bartol, T. (2021). Thrips and natural enemies through text data mining and visualization. Plant Protection Science, 57(1), 47–58. https://pps.agriculturejournals.cz/artkey/pps-202101-0006_thrips-and-natural-enemies-through-text-data-mining-and-visualization.php
Tefera, B. N. (2024). Population dynamics of coffee thrips (Diarthrothrips coffeae) (Thysanoptera: Thripidae) using sticky traps with different essential oils. American Journal of Entomology, 8(3), Article 16. https://www.sciencepublishinggroup.com/article/10.11648/j.aje.20240803.16