Dormancy in Houseplants – Real Rest, Seasonal Pause, or Stress Response
- Foliage Factory
- 2 days ago
- 21 min read
Summer’s fading, and you're already bracing for which of your houseplants won’t survive the winter. Growth slows. Leaves fade. That once-thriving Monstera or Caladium now just sits there — quiet. No pests. No rot. No drama. Just… stillness.
For many indoor growers, this triggers worry.Is it dying? Should you water more? Move it? Fertilize?
In most cases, this slowdown is completely natural. It’s dormancy.
But here’s the catch:Not every houseplant needs dormancy — and not every pause means it’s actually resting.
This guide will show you:
What dormancy really is — and what it isn’t
How to tell it apart from stress, shock, or disease
Which plants go dormant and why
How to support them without overreacting
What to expect during the pause — and how to help them wake up
Whether you’re managing leafy tropicals, wint.
Contents – Dormancy in Houseplants
1. What Dormancy Actually Means (And Doesn’t)
Dormancy isn’t laziness. It’s not a symptom. It’s a strategy.
At its core, dormancy is a biologically programmed rest phase — a pause in active growth that helps plants survive tough conditions like drought, cold, or darkness. It’s a temporary shift into low gear.
But this shift happens in different ways, depending on the species and its natural habitat. Some houseplants evolved with a built-in dormancy cycle. Others just slow down when something feels off.
Understanding these differences is key to caring correctly.
2. Dormancy Comes in Three Main Types
Botanists classify plant dormancy into three categories based on how and why growth stops:
Type | Trigger | Common in |
|---|---|---|
Endo-dormancy (true dormancy) | Internal hormonal signals | Bulbs, tubers, deciduous orchids, cold-climate plants |
Eco-dormancy (pseudo-dormancy) | Environmental stress (light, temp, water) | Most tropical houseplants |
Para-dormancy | Signals from other plant parts (e.g. apical dominance) | Temporary, localized (like one stalled stem) |
📌 Key takeaway: Most common houseplants — Monstera, Philodendron, Pothos, etc. — don’t need dormancy. They enter eco-dormancy when light or temperature drops indoors.
Inside the Pause: Hormonal Control
Plants don’t “decide” to rest — they’re instructed to. Dormancy is regulated by hormones:
Abscisic acid (ABA): Tells the plant to slow down, close stomata, conserve energy. Increases during stress.
Gibberellins (GA): Promote growth. Dormancy breaks when GA levels rise relative to ABA.
Ethylene: Increases leaf drop during environmental stress.
Cytokinins & Auxins: Fine-tune shoot and root activity during dormancy and reactivation.
These signals respond to daylight, temperature, and hydration. Even small changes indoors can shift this balance.
Dormancy Is Genetic, Too
It’s not just hormones. Dormancy is written into a plant’s genetic code.
Genes like DAM, FT, and SVP control:
When buds stop developing
How long rest lasts
When reactivation begins
Some plants even produce reactive oxygen species (ROS) during dormancy breaks — a kind of internal “alarm clock” that helps restart growth.
Seed Dormancy vs. Growth Dormancy
Not to confuse things, but seed dormancy is a different phenomenon.
Seed dormancy prevents premature germination. It ends with cold, light, or scarification.
Growth dormancy (what we deal with as indoor gardeners) affects shoots, leaves, roots, buds, and storage organs.
They’re both “rests,” but for very different reasons.
Dormancy = Power-Saving Mode
Think of dormancy as a biological standby mode — not off, just paused.
During dormancy:
Shoot and root activity nearly stops
Water/nutrient uptake slows
Flowering halts
Energy is conserved in stems, bulbs, or roots
It’s not decay. It’s survival.
Even indoors, many plants enter partial dormancy — a lighter slowdown rather than a full shutdown. This is common in tropical species that aren’t genetically programmed to rest, but respond to seasonal changes in their environment.
3. What Triggers Dormancy Indoors?
Dormancy isn’t random. Even in the comfort of your living room, plants sense subtle changes — shorter days, cooler nights, drier air. These shifts don’t look dramatic to us, but for plants adapted to stable tropical or seasonal habitats, they’re loud and clear signals: “pause now or risk damage.”
Some plants are genetically tuned to rest. Others only slow down when their needs aren’t being met. Either way, dormancy begins with a combination of internal clocks and external cues.
Here are the most common indoor dormancy triggers — and what they mean for your plant.
Reduced Light and Daylength
What happens:
Photosynthesis slows
Less energy is available
ABA increases, GA decreases
Symptoms:
No new growth
Small, pale, or stretched leaves (etiolation)
Delayed or absent flowering
💡 Tip: For tropicals, even a drop from 12 to 8 hours of light per day can trigger dormancy. Supplement with full-spectrum grow lights if needed — but only when species-appropriate.
🔗 Curious what counts as “enough light” for different plants? Check our guide on how much light houseplants really need
Cooler Indoor Temperatures
What happens:
Root metabolism slows
Enzyme activity drops
Some species interpret this as seasonal change
Key thresholds:
Below 18 °C → minor slowdown in tropicals
Below 15 °C → growth stalls
Below 12 °C → stress in many evergreens
Symptoms:
Stalled buds or new leaves
Leaf drop (common in Ficus, Schefflera, Dendrobium)
Higher risk of rot from reduced uptake
💡 Tip: Avoid placing sensitive plants near drafty windows, cold floors, or unheated spaces during autumn and winter.
🔗 For more on navigating drafts, dry air, and short days, see our full winter care guide for tropical houseplants
Soil Dryness or Withheld Water
What happens:
ABA spikes
Energy shifts into storage tissues
Tubers and pseudobulbs enter rest mode
Symptoms:
Yellowing lower leaves
Wrinkled or “sleeping” bulbs
Stalled root tips despite warm conditions
💡 Tip: Some plants, like Caladium or Catasetum, need dry dormancy. Others just slow down — don’t force drought on everything.
Dry Air and Low Humidity
What happens:
Plants reduce transpiration to conserve water
Shoot and root growth pause
Marginal leaf tissue dries out
Symptoms:
Crispy leaf tips
Browning new leaves
Stalled shoots or tight leaf curl
💡 Tip: Keep humidity above 45% during winter. Avoid overwatering as compensation — it doesn’t help and may cause root issues.
🔗 For practical ways to stabilize moisture indoors, see our article on mastering humidity for healthier houseplants
🔗If you notice browning edges not only while humidity drops, our guide on brown leaf tips in houseplants helps pinpoint whether it’s dormancy stress or a care issue.
Root Stress or Nutrient Depletion
What happens:
Rootbound or depleted plants can’t support active growth
Mineral imbalances mimic dormancy effects
Root zone becomes physiologically "stuck"
Symptoms:
Growth stalls despite good light
Interveinal chlorosis (yellowing between veins)
No root expansion
💡 Tip: Don’t repot during dormancy. Resume feeding and root care only when new growth begins.
Internal Clocks and Genetic Rhythms
Some plants rest even when conditions are perfect.
Examples:
Oxalis, Lithops, Caladium, Catasetum
What happens:
Gene-regulated cycles override environmental cues
Plants follow a built-in timeline for growth and rest
Symptoms:
Dormancy at the same time every year
No visible trigger
Regrowth occurs on schedule, often suddenly
💡 Tip: Don’t try to “wake them up.” Respect the cycle. Water and light adjustments won’t override internal timers.
📌 Summary: Dormancy Triggers at a Glance
Trigger | Effect | Common Symptoms |
|---|---|---|
Shorter days | Lower photosynthesis | Pale or halted growth |
Cool temps | Metabolic slowdown | Leaf drop, bud stall |
Dry soil | ABA-driven rest | Tuber dormancy, yellow leaves |
Low humidity | Transpiration stress | Crisp tips, slowed shoots |
Root/nutrient stress | Growth inhibition | Chlorosis, no expansion |
Internal rhythm | Programmed rest | No growth, fixed timing |
4. Dormancy or Decline? How to Tell the Difference
Dormancy and stress often look similar — no growth, yellowing leaves, sudden stillness. But how do you know if your plant is resting or struggling?
Misreading dormancy can lead to overwatering, unnecessary repotting, or throwing out a perfectly healthy plant that just needs time.
Here’s how to tell the difference — with real-world cues, not guesswork.
Dormant Plants: Stable, Predictable, Alive
Dormancy is a controlled pause, not a crisis. Your plant may stop growing, but it still maintains internal health.
Typical dormancy signs:
Growth stops gradually over 1–3 weeks
Older leaves fade or drop slowly
No new shoots or buds, but existing parts stay intact
Roots remain firm, pale, and elastic
Storage organs (bulbs, tubers, stems) feel dense and hydrated
Appearance is static — it doesn’t worsen day to day
Examples:
Caladium disappears completely — but its tuber is firm
Catasetum drops all leaves — but the pseudobulb stays green
Lithops wrinkle slightly — preparing to split into new leaves
As long as there’s no foul smell, mushiness, or rapid decline, your plant is most likely dormant — not dying.
Stressed or Diseased Plants: Decline in Motion
Stress, disease, or rot tends to progress over time. The plant may appear dormant at first, but symptoms worsen, not stabilize.
❗Warning signs:
Growth halts suddenly or erratically
Newer leaves yellow or curl (not just old ones)
Leaf drop is patchy or sudden
Roots are mushy, dark, or smell rotten
Foliage becomes translucent, floppy, or soft
Stem base collapses, especially near soil
Problems spread or intensify weekly
💡 Rule of thumb: Dormant = no change. Diseased = change continues.
📌 Quick Diagnostic Checklist
Use these checks to confirm what’s happening:
1. Root Inspection
➜ Gently unpot if possible.
✓ Healthy: Pale, elastic, no odor
✗ Unhealthy: Mushy, brown/black, smells sour
2. Scratch Test (for stems/bulbs)
➜ Use fingernail or sterile blade.
✓ Alive: Green or white tissue under surface
✗ Dead: Dry, brown, brittle
3. Weight & Density
➜ For bulbs, tubers, succulents
✓ Healthy: Heavy, firm
✗ Unhealthy: Hollow, shriveled, soft
4. Progress Tracking
➜ Has it stabilized or worsened?
✓ Dormant: Looks the same for weeks
✗ Stressed: New issues appearing weekly
🔗 If you find mushy, smelly roots instead of firm ones, you’re not dealing with rest — you’re facing root rot in houseplants.
Dormancy vs. Stress – Side-by-Side Summary
Symptom | Dormant | Stressed/Diseased |
|---|---|---|
Growth | Gradually halts | Abruptly stops or fluctuates |
Leaf drop | Old leaves first | Sudden, random, or top-down |
Color change | Uniform fading | Patchy yellowing or spotting |
Roots | Firm, white/pale | Dark, mushy, smelly |
Stem texture | Stable, hydrated | Collapsing, soft, weeping |
Smell | Earthy/neutral | Sour or decaying |
Progress | Static | Worsening over time |
Seasonality | Often predictable | Often random or triggered by error |
🔗Not sure if falling leaves are seasonal or a red flag? Our guide on why houseplants lose leaves helps separate normal shedding from serious decline.
💡Ask Yourself Before Intervening
Has this plant rested like this before?
Are environmental conditions stable?
Are roots and storage organs firm?
Has decline stopped, or is it still progressing?
If symptoms plateau and the plant holds its structure — step back and let it rest. If it’s deteriorating — intervene with diagnosis and care.
5. Which Houseplants Go Dormant — And Which Just Slow Down
Not all houseplants experience dormancy the same way.
Some go through full dieback, some just pause quietly, and others keep growing if conditions are good. The key is knowing which plants need a true rest, and which ones just need minor adjustments when growth slows.
Below is a breakdown by plant group — what kind of dormancy (if any) they enter, how long it lasts, and what to expect.
Tropical Foliage Plants
Examples: Monstera, Philodendron, Pothos, Calathea, Peace Lily, Ficus, Aglaonema
Dormancy Type: Pseudo-dormancy
Trigger: Lower light, cooler air, dry indoor climate
What to Expect:
Growth slows or halts in winter
Old leaves may yellow or drop
Less need for water and nutrients
Care Tip: Don’t force a rest. These plants can stay active with bright light and warmth.
Bulbous & Tuberous Plants
Examples: Caladium, Cyclamen, Oxalis, Amaryllis (Hippeastrum), Gloriosa
Dormancy Type: True dormancy (endo-dormancy)
Trigger: Photoperiod, dry soil, seasonal end of growth
What to Expect:
Full leaf dieback
Dormant period of 6–16 weeks
Regrowth only after rest + rehydration
Care Tip: Stop watering when leaves yellow. Store bulbs cool and dry. Resume when shoots reappear.
🔗 For step-by-step storage and reactivation advice, dive into our Caladium care guide
Succulents & Cacti
Examples: Lithops, Aloe, Euphorbia, Crassula, Echeveria, Mammillaria
Dormancy Type: Mixed (true or pseudo, species-specific)
Trigger: Seasonal drought or cold, often reversed in spring
What to Expect:
No growth for 2–3 months
Wrinkling or shriveling
Delay in flowering
Care Tip: Withhold water unless species is winter-growing. Don’t stimulate growth unless the dormancy window has passed.
Orchids
Examples: Phalaenopsis, Dendrobium, Catasetum, Cymbidium
Dormancy Type: Genus-dependent
Breakdown:
Phalaenopsis: No dormancy; mild pauses between blooms
Dendrobium nobile: Needs a cool, bright rest to bloom
Catasetum: Fully deciduous; rests leafless for months
Cymbidium: Slows in winter, but stays leafy
Care Tip: Know your orchid type. Some need full dry rest — others don’t.
Ferns
Examples: Nephrolepis, Asplenium, Microsorum, Blechnum
Dormancy Type: None
What Happens Instead:
High sensitivity to dry air and cold
Browning tips, stalled frond growth
Care Tip: Maintain humidity above 50%. Don’t let soil dry out completely in winter.
Epiphytes
Examples: Hoya, Anthurium, Tillandsia, Rhipsalis, Dischidia
Dormancy Type: Mild rest phase or flowering pause
Trigger: Low light, dry air, shorter days
What to Expect:
Slower root or bud development
Temporary break in flowering
Care Tip: Avoid overwatering. Light drying cycles help prevent rot during slow periods.
Carnivorous Plants
Examples: Venus Flytrap (Dionaea), Sarracenia, Drosera (temperate)
Dormancy Type: True cold dormancy
Trigger: Daylength and cold exposure
What to Expect:
Leaves die back or traps stop working
Growth resumes after 8–12 weeks at 5–10 °C
Care Tip: Chill period is essential. Use an unheated windowsill, garage, or fridge — not a warm room.
📌 Summary Table: Dormancy by Plant Type
Group | Dormancy Type | Care Focus |
|---|---|---|
Tropical foliage | Pseudo-dormancy | Adjust water/light; avoid overcare |
Bulbs/tubers | True dormancy | Dry storage, no watering until shoots |
Succulents/cacti | Mixed | Research species; avoid winter water |
Orchids | Genus-dependent | Some rest leafless, others stay active |
Ferns | None | Avoid drafts, keep moist and humid |
Epiphytes | Mild pause | Light watering, avoid low humidity |
Carnivorous | True dormancy | Cold rest required for survival |
6. Breaking Dormancy: When and How Plants Wake Up
Dormancy doesn’t end with a calendar date — it ends when internal and external signals tell the plant, “It’s safe to grow again.”
For some species, that means longer days and warmer temperatures. For others, a dry bulb finally gets watered, or chill-hour needs are met. The timing is species-specific, but the overall process is universal: environmental change triggers hormonal shifts, and those shifts restart growth.
Here’s how it works — and how to help your plant restart smoothly.
Light: The Primary Signal
Daylength and light intensity are major triggers for dormancy break. As days get longer (or supplemental lighting increases), photoreceptors in leaves and buds activate growth hormones.
What happens:
↓ ABA (growth-inhibiting)
↑ GA (growth-stimulating)
Dormant buds begin dividing and elongating
💡 Tip: Most tropicals need 10–12 hours of bright, indirect light to restart. Using grow lights? Match duration to season (12–14 hours in early spring).
Temperature: Heat Signals Activity
Warmth boosts enzyme function, increases water uptake, and wakes up root metabolism.
Examples:
Tropicals restart at ~18–20 °C (night)
Succulents resume around 15–18 °C
Cool-rest orchids need day/night contrast (e.g. Dendrobium: 22 °C day / 12 °C night)
⚠️ Caution: If you increase warmth without increasing light, you risk weak, leggy growth or leaf deformities. Time both together.
Water: The "Go" Button (For Dry-Stored Plants)
For true dormancy species (bulbs, Catasetum, Lithops), water acts as the final cue.
When to resume watering:
Swelling at growth points
Pseudobulbs soften slightly
Bud tips emerge or root tips elongate
For Lithops: when old leaves fully shrivel
💡 Don’t water blindly — watering too early is one of the top causes of rot during dormancy break.
Chill Hour Completion (Cold-Dormant Species)
Some plants require a period of cold exposure (usually 5–12 °C for 8–14 weeks) before they can grow or flower again.
Applies to:
Carnivorous plants (Dionaea, Sarracenia)
Amaryllis (for rebloom)
Lithops (for correct leaf cycle)
This cooling phase resets hormonal balance, especially ABA vs. GA. Skip it, and growth may resume — but flowering often won’t.
Internal Timing: The Built-In Clock
Certain plants (e.g. Oxalis, Caladium, Catasetum) wake up based on circannual rhythms, not external cues.
They’ll sprout even in storage — whether or not light, warmth, or moisture are present.
Your job?
Don’t rush it. Wait for the sprout. Then reintroduce warmth, light, and eventually water.
✗ What Not to Do During Dormancy Break
Common mistakes (and why to avoid them):
Mistake | Why It’s Harmful |
|---|---|
Fertilizing too early | Dormant roots can’t absorb nutrients → salt burn |
Watering before activity resumes | High rot risk, especially in LECA or compacted media |
Putting in direct sun too soon | New growth is fragile → sunburn |
Repotting prematurely | Inactive roots can’t stabilize in new substrate |
💡 Wait for visible life — then ease into the active season.
🔗 If you’re unsure how much water to hold back, revisit the basics with our ultimate watering guide
📌 Summary: Dormancy-Breaking Triggers
Trigger | Works On | Effect |
|---|---|---|
Longer daylength | Most houseplants | Restarts growth hormones |
Warmer temperatures | All groups | Boosts root + shoot metabolism |
First watering | Bulbs, orchids, succulents | Signals active phase begins |
Cold duration (chill hours) | Carnivorous, geophytes | Enables flowering + regrowth |
Internal timing | Oxalis, Caladium, Catasetum | Growth starts regardless of conditions |
7. The Risks of Forcing Houseplants to Grow Nonstop
With grow lights, heating, and nutrients at your fingertips, it’s easy to assume you can keep your plants in constant growth mode. And for some tropical foliage species, that’s mostly true.
But for many others — especially plants evolved for dry seasons, cool dormancy, or rest-driven bloom cycles — skipping dormancy backfires.
Here’s what can go wrong when you try to keep every plant “on” all year long.
Weak, Leggy Growth
Pushing plants into growth before they’re hormonally or physiologically ready leads to soft, stretched, unstable stems.
? Why?
GA (growth hormone) rises, but light/photosynthesis can’t support it
New cells lack lignin (strengthening compound)
Growth is fast but floppy, pale, or malformed
➜ Common in:
Overwatered succulents in winter
Early-forced bulbs
Catasetum orchids pushed post-leaf drop
🔗 When plants stretch unnaturally in low light, it’s often not growth but stress. Our guide on leggy plant growth shows how to prevent and correct it.
Failure to Bloom or Rebloom
Many plants require a rest phase to trigger flowering. Without it, they grow — but never bloom.
➜ Examples:
Amaryllis: Needs 6–8 weeks of dry rest
Dendrobium nobile: Cool, bright rest for bud formation
Lithops: Only flowers after complete winter dormancy
Result: Leaves only. No spikes, no flowers, or aborted buds.
Higher Pest and Disease Pressure
Dormancy allows plants to rebuild defenses and slow down pathogen entry. Forced growth produces weaker tissue.
➜ Consequences:
Thin cuticles = easy prey for spider mites, thrips, aphids
Inconsistent watering = fungus gnats, root rot
Poor stomatal regulation = leaf edema, rot spots
❗You may notice:
Pest outbreaks only in new growth
Moldy or sour-smelling media
Burnt leaf tips on sensitive plants in LECA or coco
Nutrient Burn and Salt Buildup
Fertilizing a dormant or slow plant doesn’t help — it stresses the roots.
? Why this happens:
Roots can’t uptake minerals → salts accumulate
High EC damages new root tips
Future growth is stunted or chlorotic
❗ Especially risky in:
Semi-hydro setups (LECA, pon, perlite)
Peat mixes with poor flushing
Long-Term Fatigue and Early Decline
Rest isn’t downtime — it’s recovery.
✓ Plants need it to:
Rebuild carbohydrate stores
Repair cell damage
Rebalance hormones before blooming
✗ Without this reset:
Leaves shrink year after year
Buds form late or not at all
Branches weaken or bend
Dormancy becomes irregular or dysfunctional
Eventually, the plant may crash — sudden dieback after years of overstimulation is common in orchids, bulbs, and many succulents.
Which Plants Can Skip Dormancy?
Okay to keep growing year-round (if conditions are ideal):
Monstera deliciosa
Epipremnum aureum (Pothos)
Spathiphyllum (Peace Lily)
Anthurium andraeanum
Phalaenopsis orchids
Plants that require rest to thrive long-term:
Caladium
Catasetum orchids
Amaryllis
Lithops
Dendrobium nobile
Venus flytrap
Sarracenia (pitcher plant)
💡 Even evergreens benefit from a mild pause — less water, less feed, less stress.
📌 Summary: Risks of Skipping Dormancy
Risk | Cause | Result |
|---|---|---|
Floppy growth | Growth hormone spike + low light | Weak, leggy, unstable stems |
No flowers | No rest = no hormonal trigger | Growth without blooming |
Pest outbreaks | Soft tissue, poor regulation | Infestations + disease risk |
Salt buildup | Fertilizer without uptake | Root damage, stunting |
Sudden crash | Chronic stress, no recovery | Irreversible decline |
8. Dormancy Myths and Misunderstandings
Separating Facts From Folklore
Dormancy is one of the most misunderstood plant behaviors. In online care tips, it’s often either oversimplified (“don’t water in winter”) or overgeneralized (“all plants need dormancy”).
Neither is true. The result? Misdiagnosed stress, wrong care, and unnecessary plant loss.
Let’s correct the most persistent myths — based on what actually happens inside your plant.
✗ Myth 1: “All houseplants need a dormancy period.”
✓ Truth: Dormancy is species-specific, not universal.
Caladium, Oxalis, Amaryllis need true dormancy.
Monstera, Philodendron, Peace Lily do not — they only slow down in response to poor indoor conditions.
➜ Why It Matters: You shouldn’t force rest on evergreen tropicals. With light and warmth, they’ll grow happily year-round.
✗ Myth 2: “If your plant is dormant, stop watering completely.”
✓ Truth: Water needs vary with dormancy type and plant structure.
True dormancy (bulbs, succulents) = stay dry
Pseudo-dormancy (tropicals) = water less, not none
Dormant ferns or orchids with leaves = may still need light watering
➜ Why It Matters: Going bone-dry when your plant still has foliage can cause dehydration or leaf loss. Match water to activity — not to season alone.
✗ Myth 3: “Dormant plants don’t need light.”
✓ Truth: Most dormant plants still require baseline brightness.
Dormant leaves continue slow metabolic activity
Light helps preserve storage organs and avoid etiolation
Complete darkness can increase rot risk, especially in humid spaces
➜ Why It Matters: Your plant isn’t “off” — just resting. Keep it in a bright spot unless fully leafless and dry-stored.
✗ Myth 4: “If it looks dead, it is.”
✓ Truth: Dormancy often mimics death — but isn’t.
Caladium disappears underground for months
Catasetum rests as bare pseudobulbs
Lithops wrinkle and shrink before splitting into new leaves
➜ Why It Matters: Always check roots, weight, or stem firmness before tossing a “dead” plant.
✗ Myth 5: “Fertilizer wakes a dormant plant.”
✓ Truth: Growth restarts when light, warmth, and hormones align — not from external nutrients.
Dormant roots can’t absorb fertilizer
Fertilizing too early = salt buildup + root burn
➜ Why It Matters: Feed only when new roots or shoots are clearly visible — not before.
📌 Myth-to-Truth Summary Table
Claim | True/False | Why |
|---|---|---|
All houseplants go dormant | ✗ False | Depends on genetics and origin |
Dormant = no water | ✗ Not always | Some need light watering |
Dormant = no light needed | ✗ False | Most still need brightness |
Dormant = dead | ✗ False | Plants often mimic death |
Fertilizer restarts growth | ✗ False | Triggers are environmental, not nutritional |
9. Dormancy FAQs
You’ve seen the signs, learned the triggers, and adjusted your care… but some dormancy questions keep coming up. Here’s a clear, no-fluff reference for the most common ones.
Why isn’t my plant growing in winter?
It’s likely in eco-dormancy — a temporary slowdown from low light, cooler air, or less watering. If:
It looks healthy
No rapid decline
This happened last year too
…then it’s likely resting. Resume full care when growth resumes.
Can I use grow lights to prevent dormancy?
Yes — for tropical foliage plants (e.g., Monstera, Pothos, Philodendron). Use 12–14 hours/day of full-spectrum light.
Don’t use lights to prevent dormancy in:
Caladium
Amaryllis
Catasetum
Lithops
Temperate carnivorous plants
They need rest, and forcing them harms long-term health.
My Oxalis disappeared. Is it dead?
No. Most Oxalis species go fully dormant after their cycle. Stop watering. Store cool and dry. Wait 4–10 weeks. Shoots will return when ready.
Do I have to chill bulbs in the fridge?
Only if the species requires it.
Amaryllis, Caladium: Store dry, no fridge
Carnivorous plants, tulips, daffodils: Yes — chill 8–12 weeks at 5–10 °C
Forcing cold on the wrong species causes rot. Always research your specific plant.
What indoor temperatures are dormancy-safe?
Plant Type | Safe Range |
|---|---|
Tropical foliage | 18 °C+ |
Dormant bulbs/tubers | 10–15 °C (dry) |
Cold-dormant plants | 5–10 °C for 2–3 months |
Catasetum orchids | 15–18 °C dry rest |
❗ Below 12 °C stresses many tropicals — even if they seem dormant.
How often should I water a dormant plant?”
Dormancy Type | Watering |
True dormancy (bulbs, succulents) | None at all |
Pseudo-dormancy (tropicals) | Minimal; only when dry |
Dormant but leafy (ferns, Phalaenopsis) | Light watering |
LECA or semi-hydro | Lower or remove reservoir |
Never water on a schedule. Watch the roots, substrate, and activity.
How long does dormancy last?
Plant | Dormancy Duration |
|---|---|
Caladium, Oxalis | 6–12 weeks |
Carnivorous plants | ~3 months |
Catasetum orchids | 2–4 months |
Lithops | 2–3 months dry period |
Tropicals (pseudo) | 3–8 weeks slowdown |
💡 If nothing happens after 4+ months, reassess light, temp, and bulb/root health.
Can I force a plant into dormancy?
Only if the species evolved with one.
How to induce dormancy (when appropriate):
Stop watering
Reduce light and warmth
Let foliage die back naturally
Applies to:
Amaryllis (post-bloom)
Caladium (end of summer)
Catasetum (after leaf drop)
Don’t force dormancy on evergreen species like Monstera, Anthurium, or Peace Lily.
Can plants stay dormant even if conditions are good?
Yes — if they have a circannual rhythm.
Examples:
Oxalis
Caladium
Catasetum
Lithops
These plants will rest when ready — and sprout on their internal schedule, not yours.
Do Alocasia go dormant in nature — or just indoors?
Depends on the species.
Origin | Behavior |
Dry/subtropical types (e.g. A. odora) | Often go dormant |
Rainforest types (e.g. A. reginula) | Usually evergreen |
Indoors:
All Alocasia may lose leaves in winter from stress (low light, humidity, or cold)
All types may suffer if kept too cold or dry
💡 Care tip: Keep warm and lightly moist. Don’t force leaf loss.
10. Quick Reference Charts
Dormancy symptoms can look like stress, rot, or nutrient issues — and timing isn’t always obvious. That’s why fast, reliable visual tools help confirm what your plant is doing right now.
Below are compact charts to support confident, informed care decisions — especially when growth stalls.
Dormancy Timing by Plant Type
Plant Group | Dormancy Period | Duration | Trigger |
|---|---|---|---|
Caladium | Autumn–Winter | 2–4 months | Dry soil, fading light |
Catasetum orchid | Late Autumn | 2–3 months | Leaf drop + dry rest |
Lithops | Winter | 2–3 months | Cool temps, no water |
Amaryllis | Post-bloom (summer/autumn) | ~2 months | Energy depletion |
Carnivorous (e.g. Venus flytrap) | Winter | 2–3 months | Cold + short days |
Oxalis | After active growth ends | 1–2 months | Completion of foliage cycle |
Tropicals (e.g. Monstera) | Autumn–Winter | 3–8 weeks (pseudo) | Low light, dry air |
💡 Reminder: Use this chart to anticipate rest — not force it.
Dormancy Hormones: Key Roles
Hormone | Role in Dormancy |
|---|---|
Abscisic Acid (ABA) | Initiates and maintains dormancy; closes stomata |
Gibberellins (GA) | Triggers growth resumption |
Ethylene | Promotes senescence; may trigger leaf drop |
Cytokinins | Support post-dormancy shoot activity |
Auxins | Coordinate growth direction during reactivation |
💡 Note: These hormones are not controlled by you — but your care affects how they're expressed.
Symptom Checker: Dormancy vs. Decline
Symptom | Dormant | Stressed | Diseased |
|---|---|---|---|
Growth stops | Gradual | Sudden | Erratic or worsening |
Leaf drop | Old leaves only | Random or rapid | Entire sections collapse |
Leaf color | Even fading | Patchy yellowing | Spots, streaks, necrosis |
Roots | Firm, white/tan | Pale or limp | Dark, mushy, foul-smelling |
Stem firmness | Stable | Weakening | Collapsing |
Odor | Earthy or neutral | Neutral | Sour or putrid |
Timeline | Seasonal, stable | Random | Worsens over time |
💡 Use this table before acting — especially when you’re tempted to water or repot "just in case."
Dormancy Type by Category
Plant Type | Dormancy Type | Behavior | Key Consideration |
|---|---|---|---|
Tropical foliage | Pseudo | Slows in poor light | Adjust water & light only |
Bulbs & tubers | True | Complete dieback | Dry storage required |
Succulents | Mixed | Species-specific rest | Research climate origin |
Orchids (Catasetum) | True | Drops all leaves | No water until growth returns |
Orchids (Phalaenopsis) | None | Mild bloom pause | Care year-round |
Carnivorous plants | True | Rhizome rests | Chill is essential |
Ferns | None | May look stressed | Don’t dry out |
Epiphytes | Mild | Slower flowering/root growth | Avoid winter overwatering |
These tools give you fast, visual confirmation of what your plant needs at any stage of the year — whether it’s resting, waking up, or stalling for another reason.
11. Dormancy Isn’t Failure — It’s Recovery
When a plant stops growing, it’s easy to assume something’s wrong. But in many cases, it’s doing exactly what it was built to do: pause, conserve, and prepare to grow again.
Dormancy isn’t laziness. It isn’t a sign of neglect. And it’s definitely not death. It’s strategic rest — a response rooted in millions of years of environmental adaptation.
Understanding dormancy means understanding when to act — and when to step back. When to water, when to wait. When to support, and when to simply let the cycle run its course.
📌 Dormancy Takeaways You Can Use Year-Round
1. Dormancy is species-specific.
Tropical foliage may just slow down. Bulbs, succulents, and temperate plants often must rest to stay healthy.
2. Triggers are environmental and internal.
Light, temperature, water, humidity, nutrients — and sometimes, just time — send plants into or out of dormancy.
3. Less is often more.
Overwatering, fertilizing, or repotting during dormancy causes more harm than good. Back off, not double down.
4. Watch the plant — not the calendar.
Visible cues (leaf drop, swelling buds, firm roots) matter more than months or myths.
5. Dormancy leads to better growth.
A rested plant produces stronger roots, better blooms, and more stable growth long term.
Final Thought
You don’t need to fight dormancy. You don’t need to fear it. You just need to recognize it for what it is: resilience in action.
Give your plants the pause they need — and when they’re ready to grow again, they’ll return with more strength, balance, and beauty than before.
12. Sources and Further Reading
Foundational and General References on Plant Dormancy
Vegis, A. (1964). Dormancy in higher plants. Annual Review of Plant Physiology, 15, 185–224. https://doi.org/10.1146/annurev.pp.15.060164.001153
Lang, G. A., Early, J. D., Martin, G. C., & Darnell, R. L. (1987). Endo-, para-, and ecodormancy: physiological terminology and classification for dormancy research. HortScience, 22(3), 371–377. https://doi.org/10.21273/HORTSCI.22.3.371
Bewley, J. D. (1997). Seed germination and dormancy. The Plant Cell, 9(7), 1055–1066. https://doi.org/10.1105/tpc.9.7.1055
Rohde, A., & Bhalerao, R. P. (2007). Plant dormancy in the perennial context. Trends in Plant Science, 12(5), 217–223. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.tplants.2007.03.012
Baskin, J. M., & Baskin, C. C. (2004). A classification system for seed dormancy. Seed Science Research, 14(1), 1–16. https://doi.org/10.1079/SSR2003150
Baskin, C. C., & Baskin, J. M. (2014). Seeds: Ecology, biogeography, and evolution of dormancy and germination (2nd ed.). Academic Press. (Google Books preview: https://books.google.com/books?id=CYO-AQAAQBAJ**)**
Dormancy in Tropical Plants and Houseplants
Garwood, N. C. (1983). Seed germination in a seasonal tropical forest in Panama: a community study. Ecological Monographs, 53(2), 159–181. https://doi.org/10.2307/1942493
Baskin, C. C., & Baskin, J. M. (2005). Seed dormancy in trees of climax tropical vegetation types. Tropical Ecology, 46(1), 17–28. (Available via ResearchGate: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/237439107_Seed_dormancy_in_trees_of_climax_tropical_vegetation_types**)**
van Klinken, R. D., Flack, L. K., & Pettit, W. (2006). Wet-season dormancy release in seed banks of a tropical leguminous shrub is determined by wet heat. Annals of Botany, 98(4), 875–883. https://doi.org/10.1093/aob/mcl171
Jaganathan, G. K. (2021). Ecological insights into the coexistence of dormancy and desiccation-sensitivity in Arecaceae species. Annals of Forest Science, 78(1), 10. https://doi.org/10.1007/s13595-021-01032-9
Borchert, R., & Rivera, G. (2001). Photoperiodic control of seasonal development and dormancy in tropical stem-succulent trees. Tree Physiology, 21(14), 863–873. https://doi.org/10.1093/treephys/21.14.863
Zhang, Y., Liu, Y., Sun, L., Baskin, C. C., Baskin, J. M., Cao, M., & Yang, J. (2022). Seed dormancy in space and time: global distribution, paleoclimatic and present climatic drivers, and evolutionary adaptations. New Phytologist, 234(5), 1770–1781. https://doi.org/10.1111/nph.18099
Penn State Extension. (2023, September 20). Tropical plants to overwinter. Penn State Extension. https://extension.psu.edu/tropical-plants-to-overwinter
Physiological and Molecular Mechanisms of Dormancy
Horvath, D. P., Anderson, J. V., Chao, W. S., & Foley, M. E. (2003). Knowing when to grow: signals regulating bud dormancy. Trends in Plant Science, 8(11), 534–540. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.tplants.2003.09.013
Nambara, E., & Marion-Poll, A. (2005). Abscisic acid and seed dormancy. Seed Science Research, 15(2), 133–144. https://doi.org/10.1079/SSR2005218
Cooke, J. E. K., Eriksson, M. E., & Junttila, O. (2012). The dynamic nature of bud dormancy in trees: environmental control and molecular mechanisms. Plant, Cell & Environment, 35(10), 1707–1728. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-3040.2012.02552.x
Beauvieux, R., Wenden, B., & Dirlewanger, E. (2018). Bud dormancy in perennial fruit tree species: a pivotal role for oxidative cues. Frontiers in Plant Science, 9, 657. https://doi.org/10.3389/fpls.2018.00657
Liu, J., & Sherif, S. M. (2019). Hormonal orchestration of bud dormancy cycle in deciduous woody perennials. Frontiers in Plant Science, 10, 1136. https://doi.org/10.3389/fpls.2019.01136
Pan, W., Liang, J., Sui, J., Li, J., Liu, C., Xin, Y., Zhang, Y., Wang, S., Zhao, Y., Zhang, J., Yi, M., Gazzarrini, S., & Wu, J. (2021). ABA and bud dormancy in perennials: current knowledge and future perspective. Genes, 12(10), 1635. https://doi.org/10.3390/genes12101635
Zhao, Y., Liu, C., Sui, J., Liang, J., Ge, J., Li, J., Pan, W., Yi, M., Du, Y., & Wu, J. (2022). A wake-up call: signaling in regulating ornamental geophytes dormancy. Ornamental Plant Research, 2, 8. https://doi.org/10.48130/OPR-2022-0008
Comments