Arid vs. Jungle Succulents: Care, Traits & Key Differences
- Foliage Factory
- Aug 22, 2024
- 34 min read
Updated: Aug 3

Why “Succulent” Doesn’t Mean What You Think It Does
If you’ve ever admired the chunky rosettes of an Echeveria, the cascading stems of a Rhipsalis, or the upright columns of a Euphorbia, you already know: succulents come in wildly different forms.
But here’s the catch:
Why are such different plants all called “succulents”? And why does that label often lead to poor care decisions indoors?
Let’s start with a myth-busting fact:
“Succulent” isn’t a botanical category. It’s not a family, genus, or even a real group — it’s a functional trait. Succulent plants evolved the ability to store water in their tissues to survive drought. That’s it.
Here’s what most people miss:
Succulence evolved independently — and repeatedly — in radically different habitats:
Blazing deserts with rocky soils
Rain-soaked jungle canopies
Fog deserts on coastal cliffs
Epiphytic life on tree trunks and volcanic rock
So while all succulents store water, not all succulents come from deserts. Some evolved under dripping trees in cloud forests. And that difference matters more than you think — especially when it comes to watering, lighting, soil mix, and even photosynthesis strategy.
What You’ll Learn in This Guide
Forget vague “succulent care tips.” This guide helps you work with plant biology, not generic advice. You’ll learn:
This isn’t just about keeping plants alive. It’s about understanding why your care works — or doesn’t.
1. Succulence Is a Strategy — Not a Plant Group
“Succulent” is one of the most overused — and misunderstood — labels in horticulture. It doesn’t describe a plant family, genus, or order. It’s not a formal group at all.
Instead, it refers to a survival strategy:
The ability to store water in living tissue to survive temporary drought.
That strategy evolved many times, in many ways — and that distinction matters.
What Makes a Plant a Succulent?
Succulent plants store water in at least one of the following:
Leaves – thick, fleshy, often rosette-forming (e.g. Echeveria, Peperomia)
Stems – swollen, ribbed, or columnar (e.g. Euphorbia, Cereus)
Roots or underground organs – tubers, rhizomes, or corms (e.g. Othonna, Amorphophallus)
These internal reservoirs act as buffers, helping the plant survive dry spells — but not forever.They decouple survival from daily moisture, but not from all water.
💡 Succulent tissue isn't just about thickness — it's biomechanically engineered for resilience. Many species have collapsible vacuoles and elastic cell walls that expand during hydration and shrink safely during drought, without rupturing cells.
(Fradera-Soler et al., 2022)
Succulence Evolved Again and Again
Succulence isn’t a lineage. It’s a convergent trait — meaning it evolved independently in over 80 plant families.That’s why a Haworthia, a Hoya, and a Zamioculcas can all be “succulents” despite having no close relation.
What drove this convergence?
Unpredictable rainfall or seasonal drought
High evaporation from heat, wind, or sun
Poor water retention in bark, sand, or rock
Unstable rooting on cliffs, trees, or volcanic slopes
Each environment pushed plants to develop similar water-storing adaptations — even if they came from completely different evolutionary paths.
Why This Matters in Plant Care
Because succulence is just a trait, not a taxonomy, two “succulent” plants might have:
Different photosynthesis strategies (CAM vs. C3)
Different watering needs
Different substrate preferences
Different root types and growth forms
Opposite dormancy rhythms
📌 In other words:
Rhipsalis and Haworthia might both store water — but one clings to trees in rainforest canopies, the other survives on sunbaked rock. Treating them the same is how problems start.

2. Evolution Split the Succulents: Desert vs. Jungle Paths
Succulence didn’t evolve once.
It evolved many times — in deserts, forests, cliffs, and cloud-drenched treetops.
That’s why there’s no such thing as a “typical” succulent.They don’t share one body type, root system, or photosynthetic pathway. Instead, each succulent reflects the unique pressures of the environment it came from.
And that divergence explains why care routines often fail:
A succulent from a foggy rainforest won’t thrive under the same conditions as one from a blazing desert.
🌵 Arid Succulents: Designed for Drought
Succulents from deserts and semi-arid zones evolved under harsh, dry conditions. Their entire structure is about water storage, loss prevention, and survival through extremes.
Key Traits:
Thick leaves or stems to store high water volumes
Waxy surfaces, hairs, or ribs to reduce transpiration
Compact or vertical growth to minimize sun exposure and surface loss
Root systems that spread wide to catch fleeting rain — or grow deep to reach groundwater
Common examples:
Aloe vera
Echeveria agavoides
Euphorbia obesa
Opuntia ficus-indica
These plants are built to store first, survive later — and tolerate long periods of full dryness.
🌿 Jungle Succulents: Built for Brief Drought, Constant Competition
Succulents from rainforests and cloud forests evolved under almost opposite conditions. Moisture was frequent but inconsistent. Their challenge wasn’t drought — it was drainage, light access, and epiphytic growth.
Key Traits:
Thinner, semi-succulent leaves for quick uptake and fast exchange
Climbing or trailing stems to seek light under a dense canopy
Fibrous or aerial roots to grip bark and absorb from mist, rain, or debris
Ability to survive short dry spells — but not months of drought
Common examples:
Hoya carnosa
Rhipsalis baccifera
Disocactus ackermanii
Dischidia ovata
These plants don’t store like desert types. They rely on ambient humidity and consistent access to light moisture — not deep reservoirs.
Why It Matters
This is where care routines diverge:
Desert types need soak and dry watering, full sun, and mineral substrates.
Jungle types need gentle, regular moisture, indirect light, and airy, barky mixes.
💡 Knowing whether your succulent evolved under the sun or in a rainforest canopy isn’t trivia — it’s the foundation for everything else: watering, potting, light, and even fertilizer strategy.
How Succulence Differs: Arid vs. Jungle Origins
Trait | 🌵 Arid Succulents | 🌿 Jungle Succulents |
---|---|---|
Native Climate | Dry, seasonal, often extreme | Humid, stable, frequently wet |
Water Stress | Long-term drought survival | Short dry periods between rainfall |
Water Storage | Large-volume, long-term buffering | Low-volume, short-term moisture use |
Leaf & Stem Texture | Thick, rigid, minimal surface area | Soft, flexible, high surface exchange |
Root System | Taproots or wide-spreading shallow roots | Fibrous or aerial roots with velamen |
Light Tolerance | Full sun, high light exposure | Filtered, dappled, indirect light |
Growth Form | Rosette-forming, columnar, or shrubby | Climbing, trailing, compact epiphytes |

3. Photosynthesis in Succulents: Why It Changes How You Water
Succulents don’t just store water — they use it differently depending on how they photosynthesize. And that difference plays a direct role in how much light, water, and drought stress a plant can handle.
There are three main pathways found in succulents:
C3 Photosynthesis – the standard method used by most plants
CAM (Crassulacean Acid Metabolism) – a drought-adapted strategy
CAM-Idling – an emergency survival mode during extreme drought
❗Some tropical succulents, like Portulacaria afra or Clusia rosea, use facultative CAM. They switch between standard C3 photosynthesis and CAM depending on drought, light intensity, or other stressors — reverting when conditions stabilize.
( Griggs et al., 2011; Ogburn & Edwards, 2010)
Knowing which one your plant uses can explain everything from watering frequency to light sensitivity.
CAM Photosynthesis: The Desert Specialist
CAM is the classic photosynthetic strategy of desert succulents. It evolved to minimize water loss in hot, dry, high-light environments.
How CAM works:
At night: Stomata (leaf pores) open to absorb CO₂, storing it as organic acid
By day: Stomata stay shut to conserve water. The stored CO₂ is converted into sugars using sunlight
This separation allows the plant to photosynthesize without losing water to the daytime heat — a key survival advantage in deserts.
Common CAM plants:
Aloe
Agave
Euphorbia (many species)
Opuntia
Haworthia
💡 CAM plants thrive with strong light and full dry-outs between waterings.
C3 Photosynthesis: The Tropical Default
C3 is the standard photosynthetic pathway used by most plants on Earth — including many jungle succulents. In this system:
Stomata stay open during the day to take in CO₂
Water is lost through transpiration while photosynthesis happens
It’s less water-efficient but ideal for humid, shaded habitats where dehydration is a minor risk.
Common C3 succulents:
Peperomia
Dischidia
Rhipsalis
Hoya (most species, under non-stress conditions)
💡 C3 succulents prefer consistent, light moisture and struggle with prolonged dryness.
CAM-Idling: Survival Without Growth
When drought becomes extreme, some succulents enter CAM-idling — a kind of metabolic pause.
Stomata stay closed 24/7, preventing any water loss
The plant recycles internal CO₂ from respiration to keep cells alive
Growth stops completely, but the plant remains alive in a suspended state
Plants known to CAM-idle:
Hoya carnosa
Tillandsia
Some Kalanchoe species
💡CAM-idling is not a sustainable state — it’s damage control. Prolonged dormancy here can lead to shriveling or root loss if not gently rehydrated.
Why This Matters for Watering
Here’s how photosynthesis type shapes care:
Trait | 🌵 CAM Plants (Arid) | 🌿C3 Plants (Jungle) |
---|---|---|
Stomata Open | Night | Day |
Water Efficiency | Extremely high | Moderate |
Light Preference | Full sun or high intensity | Bright indirect, dappled shade |
Watering Pattern | Soak and dry | Light, regular moisture |
Drought Survival | Excellent | Limited (tolerate short dry spells only) |
💡A succulent’s photosynthetic strategy is a cheat code to its ideal watering routine. Know it — and you’ll avoid 90% of watering mistakes.

4. Morphological Adaptations: Form Follows Habitat
Not all succulents look alike — and that’s not just variation for aesthetics.A succulent’s shape, surface, and growth habit evolved to solve very specific environmental problems: water loss, light stress, root access, or airflow.
💡Understand the structure, and you’ll know what kind of care your plant actually needs — even without a label.
Where Succulents Store Water (and How That Shapes Their Needs)
The first major difference in form is where a plant stores water — and how much it can hold.
🌵 Arid Succulents | 🌿 Jungle Succulents |
Examples:
💡 These plants tolerate full drying and expect it between waterings. |
Examples:
💡Left dry too long, these plants may shrivel or drop leaves, even though they’re “succulents.” |
💡 One overlooked factor in the evolution of succulence is venation. Many succulent species first evolved dense, reticulate vein networks that distribute water evenly and support internal storage — a prerequisite for true leaf succulence.
(Ogburn & Edwards, 2013)
Surface Traits: Built for Defense or Exchange
The outer layer of a succulent reveals its habitat priorities — either defending against evaporation or managing moisture in humid air.
🌵 Arid Species | 🌿Jungle Species |
Examples:
|
Examples:
|
Color Shifts: Pigments as Sunblock
If your succulent turns red, orange, or purple in high light or cold, that’s not random — it’s a stress response. Many succulents produce pigments like anthocyanins or carotenoids as protection.
These pigments act as natural sunscreens, protecting chlorophyll from damage
Once the stress is removed, color fades back to green
🌵 Arid Succulents | 🌿Jungle Succulents |
|
|
💡 Want to know why your succulent suddenly turned crimson, bronze, or violet?
It’s not random — and it’s not always a bad sign. Some succulents use color like sunscreen.
Growth Habits: Structure Reflects Survival
A succulent’s growth pattern hints at its native substrate, light access, and airflow needs.
🌵 Arid Succulents | 🌿Jungle Succulents |
|
|
💡These forms influence where to place the plant, what pot shape to use, and how to manage light and humidity.
Quick Reference: Morphology Comparison
Trait | 🌵 Arid Succulents | 🌿 Jungle Succulents |
---|---|---|
Leaf/Stem Texture | Thick, rigid, dense | Soft, semi-succulent |
Surface Features | Waxy, hairy, ribbed, spiny | Smooth, glossy, hairless |
Pigment Response | Strong (red, purple, orange) | Mild, posture-based light management |
Growth Habit | Rosette, columnar, shrubby | Climbing, trailing, compact epiphytes |
Tissue Purpose | Long-term drought storage | Short-term moisture buffering |
💡 A succulent’s form is its resume. It tells you how it handles light, water, and air — and whether it expects drought, drizzle, or filtered jungle mist.

5. Root System Adaptations: How Succulents Anchor and Absorb
Succulent roots aren’t just anchors — they’re survival tools.In fact, their structure tells you exactly how the plant expects to find water: deep and rare in deserts, or frequent and fleeting in jungles.
💡 Understand how a succulent evolved to absorb moisture, and you’ll know how to pot, water, and position it indoors.
🌵 Desert Roots: Fast or Deep, but Never Passive
Succulents from arid regions face scarce, unpredictable rainfall and intense evaporation. Their roots evolved to either act fast at the surface or tap into deep reserves underground.
Key Strategies in Arid Succulents
Shallow, wide-spreading roots
➜ Designed to absorb dew or brief rain immediately
Example: Opuntia roots can stretch over 1 meter wide in young plants
Deep taproots
➜ Reach cooler, moister soil layers well below the surface
Examples: Euphorbia balsamifera, Pachycormus discolor
Feeder root dieback
In drought, fine roots die off to conserve resources — then regrow rapidly when moisture returns
What This Means for Care
Use gritty, mineral-rich substrates
Let soil dry out fully between waterings
Choose deep or wide containers, depending on species
💡 Arid-zone succulents like many cacti show high root plasticity — rapidly expanding fine roots after rainfall and retracting or sealing them off during drought. This adaptive behavior helps them capture short-lived water pulses with minimal loss.
(North & Nobel, 1998)
🌿 Jungle Roots: Flexible, Fibrous, and Aerial
Succulents from tropical rainforests rarely grow in soil.They evolved in mossy, humid environments — on tree bark, rocks, and leaf litter. Their roots aren’t designed to dig — they’re designed to grip, absorb from air, and respond fast to light moisture.
Key Traits in Jungle Succulents
Fibrous root systems
➜ Dense networks that pull in moisture from mist, rain, or condensation
Common in Peperomia, Dischidia, Hoya
Aerial roots
➜ Grow along stems to anchor the plant and scavenge nutrients from bark
Especially visible in Hoya linearis, Rhipsalis
Velamen radicum
➜ A multi-layered, spongy sheath found on aerial roots
Rapidly absorbs moisture
Prevents water loss
Adds structural support
Seen in Rhipsalis, Vanda orchids, many Hoya
What This Means for Care
Use airy, bark-based substrates
Prioritize high airflow around roots
Keep moisture consistent but not soggy
💡 These species fail in peat-heavy soils, stagnant air, or overly wet containers — even if humidity is high.
Side-by-Side: Root Traits by Habitat
Trait | 🌵 Arid Succulents | 🌿 Jungle Succulents |
---|---|---|
Moisture Source | Rare rain, dew, deep subsoil | Mist, rain, humidity, condensation |
Root Structure | Taproots or wide-surface root mats | Fibrous, aerial, often with velamen |
Soil Preference | Gritty, mineral, fast-draining | Airy, organic, bark- or moss-based |
Moisture Strategy | Full drying between waterings | Light, consistent moisture with ventilation |
Potting Needs | Deep or wide containers based on species | Shallow, breathable containers with excellent drainage |
💡 If you get the roots wrong, everything else — watering, pot size, soil — falls apart. Start with the root system, and the rest of your care routine will make sense.
The Epiphytic Spectrum: Obligate vs. Facultative Succulents
Not all epiphytic succulents behave the same. Some rely completely on tree bark or rock surfaces to grow — others can switch between trees and soil, depending on conditions.
Understanding this difference helps you avoid the most common cause of failure in indoor cultivation: inappropriate potting and overwatering.
Types of Epiphytes in Succulents
Type | Description | Examples |
---|---|---|
Obligate Epiphytes | Grow exclusively on trees or rocks; poorly adapted to soil | Rhipsalis, Lepismium, Epiphyllum |
Facultative Epiphytes | Can grow in either soil or epiphytic settings; more flexible | Hoya carnosa, Peperomia obtusifolia |
Why it matters:
Obligate epiphytes are far more sensitive to dense soil, excess moisture, and low airflow. They often rot quickly in standard potting mixes. Facultative types are more forgiving, but still thrive best in airy, bark-based substrates that mimic their native conditions.
💡 If in doubt, treat all epiphytic succulents like they need air around their roots — not wet compost.
Root Morphology Summary: Arid vs. Jungle Succulents
To close this section, here’s a concise comparison of how root traits align with habitat, watering, and substrate:
Root Trait | 🌵 Arid Succulents | 🌿 Jungle Succulents |
---|---|---|
Moisture Source | Rare rainfall, dew, deep subsoil | Frequent rain, mist, condensation |
Root Type | Taproots or shallow surface root mats | Fibrous, aerial, often with velamen layer |
Substrate Needs | Gritty, fast-draining, low organic content | Airy, bark-based, lightly moisture-retentive |
Watering Rhythm | Full dry-out between deep waterings | Light, regular moisture with airflow |
Potting Depth | Deep or wide pots depending on species | Shallow, breathable containers preferred |
💡 If you match a succulent’s root system to the wrong substrate, it doesn’t matter how careful your watering is — problems will follow.But if you respect how those roots evolved to function, your plant will tell you exactly what it needs.
6. Habitat Comparisons: Why Environment Shapes Succulent Behavior
Succulents aren’t just shaped by drought — they’re shaped by where that drought happens.
💡Whether a plant evolved in the open sun of the Atacama or the misty canopy of Borneo determines everything from its water storage to its root structure.
This section explores how environmental context defines the traits and roles of arid vs. jungle succulents — and why understanding that context makes you a better grower.
🌵 Arid Environments: Built for Extremes
Deserts and semi-arid zones are among the harshest plant habitats on Earth — with brutal temperature swings, minimal rainfall, and relentless sunlight. Yet many succulents thrive here by evolving extreme adaptations.
Environmental Conditions in Arid Zones
Rainfall: Infrequent, unpredictable, often seasonal — plants may go months (or years) without
Humidity: Very low, especially during daylight hours
Soil: Sandy, rocky, or volcanic — fast-draining and nutrient-poor
Temperature: Drastic fluctuations — often 40 °C by day, near freezing at night
Light: Intense, direct, with high UV exposure
Survival Strategies of Arid Succulents
Store water in leaves, stems, or roots during rare wet periods
Grow rapidly after rain, then enter dormancy or slow metabolic states
Minimize surface area to reduce evaporation
Use armor like wax, spines, hairs, and ribs to reduce heat stress and transpiration
Ecological Roles in Desert Systems
Shelter small wildlife from sun, predators, and temperature extremes
Provide nectar and pollen for specialized pollinators like bats, moths, and desert bees
Stabilize fragile soils, helping prevent erosion on dry slopes
Global Hotspots for Arid Succulents
Mexico: Agave, Echeveria, Mammillaria, Sedum
Namibia: Lithops, Aloe dichotoma
Chile (Atacama Desert): Copiapoa, Eriosyce
💡 These plants evolved to hoard resources, grow opportunistically, and survive long without help. Indoors, they demand full drying cycles, mineral soil, and bright light — or they stretch, rot, or shut down.
🌿 Jungle Environments: Adapted to Humidity, Not Drought
Tropical and subtropical rainforests may seem like plant paradise — but they come with their own pressures. While water is plentiful, light, airflow, and root access are major challenges. Succulents that evolved here developed very different strategies from their desert cousins.
Environmental Conditions in Jungle Habitats
Rainfall: Frequent, often year-round or tied to wet/dry seasons
Humidity: High — often staying above 70% day and night
Light: Filtered or dappled beneath dense tree canopies
Temperature: Warm and stable; rarely drops below 15 °C
Substrate: Organic-rich — moss, bark, leaf litter; often not soil at all
💡 These conditions shaped plants that are moisture-tolerant but not flood-tolerant — and light-sensitive, but not sun-loving.
Survival Strategies of Jungle Succulents
Grow as epiphytes or lithophytes — on bark, branches, or rock surfaces
Develop aerial roots to absorb moisture from mist, rain, and debris
Store small amounts of water in leaves or stems for brief dry periods
Adapt to low-light niches, but decline with prolonged dryness
Ecological Roles in Rainforest Systems
Provide habitat for insects, frogs, and ants (especially epiphytes)
Form mutualistic relationships (e.g., Dischidia with ant colonies)
Offer fragrant or uniquely structured flowers for insect pollinators
Help build vertical biodiversity by growing in layered forest strata
Global Hotspots for Jungle Succulents
Southeast Asia: Hoya, Dischidia
Central/South America: Rhipsalis, Peperomia, Anthurium
Tropical Africa: Sansevieria (now Dracaena) with semi-succulent traits
💡 These plants evolved to cling, climb, and absorb — not to hoard.They thrive with consistent moisture, airy substrates, and bright indirect light — not full drought and blazing sun.
Quick Habitat Comparison: Arid vs. Jungle Succulents
Feature | 🌵 Arid Succulents | 🌿Jungle Succulents |
---|---|---|
Climate | Dry, hot days and cool nights | Warm, stable, and consistently humid |
Light | Full sun, intense and direct | Filtered, dappled, indirect under canopy |
Humidity | Low, especially during the day | High year-round, often >70% |
Substrate Type | Mineral, gritty, very fast-draining | Organic, airy, bark- or moss-based |
Root Behavior | Deep taproots or wide surface collectors | Fibrous or aerial roots, often epiphytic |
Growth Form | Rosette, columnar, shrubby | Climbing, trailing, or compact epiphytes |
Water Storage Strategy | Large-capacity storage for long drought | Limited storage for short dry spells |
Pollination | Bats, moths, beetles, desert bees | Bees, ants, flies, moths, birds |
Dispersal Mechanism | Wind, water runoff, animal brushing | Often animal-assisted (e.g. birds, ants) |
💡This contrast explains why Haworthia and Rhipsalis need completely different substrates, watering rhythms, and lighting — even though both are technically “succulents.”

7. Dormancy and Growth Cycles: Why Some Succulents Pause and Others Power Through
One of the biggest myths in succulent care is that these plants grow steadily year-round.In reality, many — especially arid species — evolved to follow strict seasonal rhythms, growing when conditions are favorable and pausing completely during stress.
But not all succulents behave this way. While desert plants may go fully dormant, tropical succulents rarely do more than slow down.
💡 Understanding which pattern your plant follows helps you avoid common mistakes like overwatering during dormancy or panicking over stalled growth.
🌵 Arid Succulents: Dormancy as a Survival Strategy
Succulents from deserts and semi-arid regions often endure months of drought, extreme heat, or cold.Their response? Go completely offline.
What Dormancy Looks Like
No new leaves, roots, or visible growth
Older leaves may shrink, wrinkle, or drop
Water uptake slows dramatically or halts
Root and shoot growth completely stops
Metabolism drops to a minimal survival state
What Triggers Dormancy
Seasonal drought
Cold temperatures (for warm-season growers)
Excessive heat (for cool-season growers)
Shorter day length and lower light indoors
Examples of Dormant Arid Species
Winter growers (dormant in summer):▸ Echeveria, Gasteria, Aloe aristata
Summer growers (dormant in winter):▸ Euphorbia trigona, Sedum, Haworthia
💡 Always research whether your specific succulent is a summer or winter grower — this determines when to back off care.
Care Tip: What to Do During Dormancy
Stop fertilizing completely
Cut watering drastically — many species only need water every 4–6 weeks, or not at all
Resume normal care only when new growth appears (not just when temps change)
💡 Dormancy isn’t decline — it’s deliberate survival mode. If you keep watering like it’s growing, you’ll cause rot.
🌿 Jungle Succulents: No True Dormancy — Just Seasonal Slowdowns
Succulents from tropical rainforests and cloud forests rarely experience cold or drought in their native habitat. As a result, they don’t enter true dormancy like desert species — but they can slow their growth indoors, especially in winter.
This slowdown is not a shutdown. It’s a response to light and environmental cues — and knowing the signs prevents overwatering or misdiagnosed “decline.”
Common Signs of a Slowdown
Fewer or smaller new leaves
Slower root or flower development
Mild leaf curling or shriveling
Decreased water uptake in cooler, dimmer conditions
What Triggers It Indoors?
Shorter daylight hours (especially in winter)
Low indoor light (e.g. north-facing windows, overcast periods)
Cooler nighttime temperatures
Dry indoor air from heating systems
Examples of Affected Species
Hoya carnosa
Peperomia polybotrya
Dischidia ruscifolia
Rhipsalis ewaldiana
These are all plants that keep growing slowly in ideal conditions — but respond quickly to light or environmental stress.
Care Tips During a Slowdown
Water lightly when the substrate is nearly dry — but don’t let it go bone dry
Do not fertilize until active growth resumes
Increase light exposure if possible, especially in winter
Avoid placing plants near drafts, heaters, or cold windows
💡Key difference from desert types:
These plants still need moisture — just less of it. Full drought can lead to leaf loss or root damage, even during a slow phase.
Pseudodormancy Indoors: When Conditions Stall Your Plant
Not all slowdowns are seasonal. Some succulents enter a kind of false dormancy — especially indoors during winter — triggered not by climate, but by unfavorable indoor conditions.
This state, often mistaken for dormancy or decline, affects both desert and jungle species. But unlike true dormancy, it’s not built into the plant’s rhythm — it’s a response to stress.
What Causes Pseudodormancy?
Low light levels (e.g. short winter days, cloudy weeks, or north-facing rooms)
Inconsistent watering — too infrequent or abrupt changes
Stagnant air or low oxygen around the root zone
Temperature swings — cold windows, heaters, or drafty spots
How to Spot It
No visible growth for weeks or months
Soil is dry, but the plant shows no “thirst” response
No new root growth after repotting
No pests or disease — but nothing happening either
How to Respond
Don’t panic. Just adjust:
Reduce watering — don’t soak a stalled plant
Stop fertilizing completely
Improve light exposure — even 1–2 hours of added light helps
Resume normal care only when new growth resumes (new leaves, roots, or shoot tips)
Dormancy Summary Table: At a Glance
Trait | 🌵 Arid Succulents | 🌿 Jungle Succulents |
---|---|---|
Dormancy Type | True dormancy (seasonal shutdown) | No true dormancy; temporary slowdowns |
Typical Triggers | Drought, cold, extreme heat | Reduced light, dry indoor air, mild temperature dips |
Growth Response | Stops completely — plant “sleeps” | Slows significantly, may continue at low pace |
Watering Approach | Minimal to none during dormancy | Light watering; avoid full dry-out |
Fertilizer Use | Avoid entirely | Pause if slowed; resume only when active |
📌 Key takeaway:
Watering a dormant Echeveria = rot
Letting a slow-growing Rhipsalis dry out = shriveling
Fertilizing either during a rest phase = salt stress or leaf burn
Respecting your plant’s seasonal rhythm — or recognizing when conditions stall it — helps you avoid the most common succulent care mistakes.

8. Cultivation Guide: Adjusting Succulent Care by Habitat
Succulents are often sold as “easy-care” plants — but that simplicity is misleading.
An Echeveria and a Rhipsalis may both be labeled “succulent,” but their care needs are polar opposites.One evolved to survive desert heat and drought. The other grew under rainforest canopies in filtered light and humid air.
That’s why applying the same care routine to all succulents is one of the most common paths to failure.
This section breaks down the five core care pillars — and how to adapt them based on whether your plant comes from arid or jungle origins.
Light Requirements
🌵 Arid Succulents
Thrive in full sun and high light intensity
Outdoors: need 4–6+ hours of direct sunlight
Indoors: best placed at south- or west-facing windows with no obstruction
⚠️ Caution: If grown in shade, gradually acclimate them to strong light over 1–2 weeks to avoid sunburn.
Examples: Aloe, Euphorbia, Lithops, Gasteria
🌿 Jungle Succulents
Prefer bright but indirect light
Mimic dappled sunlight under tropical forest canopies
Direct midday sun — especially behind glass — can bleach or scorch leaves
Best placement: East-facing windows, or a few feet back from a bright south or west window with sheer curtains
Examples: Hoya, Peperomia, Rhipsalis, Dischidia
Watering Strategies
🌵 Arid Succulents
Use the classic “soak and dry” method
Water deeply until excess drains freely
Let soil dry out completely before watering again
⚠️ Risk: Watering while the roots are dormant or the soil is still moist leads to quick root rot
Good candidates: Echeveria, Lithops, Aloe, Euphorbia obesa
🌿 Jungle Succulents
Prefer light but consistent moisture
Keep substrate slightly damp, but never soggy
Roots are adapted to mist, dew, and fast drainage, not wet soil
⚠️ Risk: If the root zone stays dry too long, plants may shrivel, stall, or drop leaves
Good candidates: Hoya linearis, Peperomia polybotrya, Rhipsalis baccifera, Dischidia ovata
💡 Some jungle succulents, especially epiphytes like Rhipsalis evolved in fog-drenched forests where rain is sporadic but humidity is high. These plants absorb moisture from dew or fog directly through aerial roots or thin leaf surfaces — not from soggy soil.
(Males, 2017)
📌 Bottom line: Let desert types dry fully — they expect it.Keep jungle types slightly moist — they panic if bone dry.
Substrate Preferences: What the Roots Expect
Matching your succulent’s soil to its natural environment is essential.
Desert species need fast drainage and zero retention.
Jungle species need airflow with gentle moisture retention.
🌵 Arid Succulents
Require mineral-based, fast-draining substrates
Mimic sandy or rocky soils with almost no organic content
Ideal components:
Pumice
Coarse sand
Crushed lava rock
Perlite
Very small amounts of compost (if any)
Avoid: Peat moss, coco coir, vermiculite, or anything that retains moisture — they lead to rot.
🌿 Jungle Succulents
Prefer light, airy, moisture-holding mixes
Mimic decomposing leaf litter, moss, and bark on rainforest floors or tree branches
Ideal components:
Orchid bark
Coco husk or coir
Perlite or pumice (for structure and drainage)
A small portion of worm castings or compost for nutrients
Avoid: Dense mineral mixes or heavy soils — they compact, suffocate roots, and stay wet too long.
💡Tip: If the mix stays wet more than 48 hours for a desert species, or dries out completely within 12 hours for a jungle species — you're using the wrong substrate.

Temperature and Humidity: What Feels Like “Home”
Succulents are often lumped into the same temperature range, but their native environments vary widely.
Desert types like dry air and day-night swings.
Jungle types need stability and humidity to stay active.
🌵 Arid Succulents
Thrive in warm days and cooler nights
Tolerate low humidity with no issue
Ideal Range:
Day: 20–30 °C
Night: 10–18 °C
Humidity: 20–50%
⚠️ Risk: High humidity with poor airflow encourages fungal issues and stem rot.
🌿 Jungle Succulents
Prefer consistent warmth and high humidity
Can slow down in dry air or fluctuating temperatures
Ideal Range:
Day/Night: 18–28 °C
Humidity: 50–80% preferred — especially for Hoya, Dischidia, and Rhipsalis
💡 Tip:
Skip misting (it encourages rot on leaves). Instead, use a humidifier, cluster plants or place them in naturally humid areas — but only if light levels are strong enough.
Fertilization Needs: Feed by Habitat, Not by Hype
Succulents don’t need much fertilizer — but the right dose, at the right time, makes all the difference.
Desert types require minimal input.
Jungle types benefit from low-dose, regular feeding — but only when actively growing.
🌵 Arid Succulents
Slow-growing; minimal nutrient demand
Only feed during active growth (typically spring to early autumn)
💡 Fertilizer Tips:
Use low-nitrogen cactus fertilizer (e.g. 2-7-7)
Dilute to ¼–½ strength
Apply every 4–6 weeks max — skip feeding in dormancy or cool periods
🌿 Jungle Succulents
Tend to grow more continuously in stable indoor conditions
Benefit from light, regular feeding to support foliage, roots, and flowering
💡 Fertilizer Tips:
Use a balanced liquid fertilizer (e.g. 3-1-2, 10-10-10)
Dilute to ¼ strength
Feed every 3–4 weeks during active growth
Pause feeding if growth stalls (e.g. in winter or during repotting stress)
⚠️ Never fertilize any succulent that’s:
Dormant
Stressed or recovering
In compacted or bone-dry soil
Quick Comparison: Arid vs. Jungle Succulent Care
Care Factor | 🌵 Arid Succulents | 🌿 Jungle Succulents |
---|---|---|
Light | Full sun, high intensity | Bright indirect, dappled |
Watering | Soak and dry; allow complete drying | Light, consistent moisture; avoid full dryness |
Substrate | Gritty, mineral-based, fast-draining | Airy, organic; retains moisture with airflow |
Temperature | Warm days, cool nights; dry air tolerated | Stable warmth; moderate to high humidity |
Fertilizer | Infrequent, low-nitrogen during growth phase | Regular diluted feeding during active growth |
📌 Final Takeaway:
Succulent care starts with habitat. Knowing whether your plant comes from a desert or jungle is more useful than the “succulent” label ever will be.
💡Tailoring your routine to match evolution — not marketing — is the best way to avoid rot, stretching, stagnation, and leaf loss.
9. Common Pitfalls and Myth-Busting
Why Succulents Fail Indoors — Even with “Proper” Care
Succulents are often sold as foolproof, low-maintenance plants. But what actually trips people up isn’t neglect — it’s one-size-fits-all advice. Grouping jungle and desert species under the same care label leads to rot, stretching, shriveling, or even death.
Below are the most common mistakes — and the flawed assumptions behind them.
Top 5 Mistakes That Kill Succulents
1. 🌵 Overwatering Arid Succulents
Plants like Aloe, Echeveria, or Gasteria evolved to survive on long droughts, not frequent sips.
What goes wrong: Roots rot fast in cool, dark, or damp conditions.
Why: Well-meaning attempts to “revive” a wilting plant with more water — often when it’s just dormant.
Fix: Let arid types dry completely between waterings. Water only when roots are truly thirsty — not on a schedule.
2. 🌿 Underwatering Jungle Succulents
Hoya, Dischidia, Peperomia, and Rhipsalis often get treated like cacti — and suffer for it.
What goes wrong: Leaves shrivel or drop from dehydration.
Why: People assume all succulents prefer full dry-out cycles.
Fix: Maintain slight, consistent moisture in an airy substrate. These species evolved to absorb humidity and rain, not endure months of drought.
3. 🌵 Using the Wrong Soil Mix for Arid Species
A “succulent mix” from the store often contains peat or compost — not ideal for desert dwellers like Lithops, Euphorbia obesa, or Sedum.
What goes wrong: Moisture lingers too long, suffocating roots.
Why: Trusting the label instead of checking the ingredients.
Fix: Use true mineral-based, fast-draining substrates — with sand, pumice, lava rock, and minimal organics.
4. 🌿 Burning Jungle Succulents in Direct Sun
Many tropical succulents evolved under forest canopies. Their tissues are thinner and more light-sensitive.
What goes wrong: Bleaching, sunburn, crispy edges.
Why: Mistaken belief that “succulent = sun lover.”
Fix: Provide bright, indirect light — especially indoors. Use sheer curtains or pull them back from south-facing windows.
5. Applying Generic “Succulent” Care
You can’t treat a Sedum like a Peperomia. Their needs differ drastically — from light and substrate to watering and dormancy.
What goes wrong: One care routine fits no one.
Why: Lack of info about habitat, growth form, or evolutionary traits.
Fix: Always research the individual plant — not just the category it gets lumped into.

Myth Check: What's Not True About Succulent Care
Myth | Why It’s False |
---|---|
"Succulents don’t need water." | All plants need water — arid ones just store it longer. Jungle succulents shrivel without it. |
"All succulents love sun." | Only desert types do. Many jungle species burn in strong light. |
"Succulents hate humidity." | Desert species do — but tropical succulents often need it. |
"Succulents grow year-round." | Arid types often have strict dormancy cycles; many halt growth seasonally. |
"Succulent = low maintenance." | Only if care matches their origin. Misapplied “low effort” advice causes more deaths than neglect. |
What To Do Instead: Start With Origin
Don’t treat your Rhipsalis like a Lithops.
Don’t give Euphorbia trigona the same light or substrate as Hoya linearis.
💡Understanding where a plant evolved — desert, cloud forest, cliff face, jungle canopy — is the fastest way to diagnose problems and fix your care routine.

10. Transitional Succulents
The In-Betweeners: Neither Fully Arid Nor Fully Tropical
Not every succulent fits neatly into the “desert” or “jungle” box. Some evolved in intermediate habitats — shaded rocky slopes, dry woodlands, or seasonal forests — and developed traits that help them tolerate both drought and filtered light.
These transitional succulents are often more adaptable indoors but still have specific care needs. Generic routines still fail them if you miss the nuance.
Case 1: Dracaena (ex-Sansevieria)
Habitat:
Rocky dry forests & savannas (Africa, Asia)
Often mislabeled a “low light” miracle plant, Dracaena trifasciata (formerly Sansevieria) is a drought-adapted succulent that just happens to tolerate shade — not thrive in it.
Traits:
Thick, vertical leaves reduce surface area and store water
CAM photosynthesis: opens stomata at night to save moisture
Shallow fibrous roots absorb quickly after rare rains
Very shade-tolerant, but grows best with bright indirect light
Care Tip:
Let soil dry completely. Avoid overwatering or humid corners. Give it filtered sunlight if possible — it’ll grow faster and sturdier.
Case 2: Zamioculcas zamiifolia (ZZ Plant)
Habitat:
Coastal forest edges (East Africa)
Its glossy green leaves often fool growers into overwatering — but Zamioculcas zamiifolia is actually a dry forest specialist with water-storing rhizomes.
Traits:
Rhizomes act like underground reservoirs
Uses C3 photosynthesis but performs well in low light
Roots are highly rot-sensitive in heavy or compact soil
Grows in deep shade, but prefers filtered light to thrive
Care Tip:
Dry fully between waterings. Avoid standard potting soil. Protect from midday sun — leaves bleach or curl if overexposed.
Case 3: Gasteria
Habitat:
Shaded rock crevices, South Africa
Gasteria species are true succulents, but with a twist — they’re adapted to partial shade and tolerate seasonal drought, unlike many sun-loving relatives.
Traits:
Compact, slow-growing rosettes
Leaves visibly succulent but more flexible than Aloe
Naturally protected from midday heat by rocky shadows
Thrive with deep, infrequent watering
Care Tip:
Place in bright shade or early morning sun. Let dry fully before watering again. Avoid baking them in intense sun unless gradually acclimated.
Additional Transitional Examples
Genus / Species | Traits |
Ledebouria socialis | Bulbous succulent from dry forests and rocky grasslands; stores water in bulbs, tolerates brief dryness, but enjoys moderate moisture. |
Chlorophytum comosum (Spider Plant) | Semi-succulent roots; native to forest margins in Africa; tolerates drought but prefers consistent moisture. |
Senecio rowleyanus (String of Pearls) | Arid origin but growth form (trailing) and sensitivity to drought stress put it between true desert and dry-adapted epiphyte. |
Crassula perfoliata var. falcata (Propeller Plant) | Tolerates strong light but also grows in partially shaded, rocky outcrops in habitat; adaptable to indoor indirect light. |
Bulbine frutescens | From semi-arid scrublands; stores water in roots and leaves, but prefers slightly moist conditions to thrive. |
Portulacaria afra | Also known as “Elephant Bush,” this southern African native is a drought-tolerant succulent that thrives in bright light but tolerates some shade. Uniquely, it uses facultative CAM — switching to water-conserving photosynthesis during dry spells, then reverting to C3 when conditions improve. That makes it unusually adaptable to varying indoor conditions. (Griggs et al., 2011) |
Quick Trait Snapshot: Transitional Succulents
Feature | Transitional Traits |
---|---|
Light Tolerance | Moderate to low; best in bright indirect |
Watering Needs | Drought-tolerant, but not “soak and dry” |
Substrate | Drains fast, retains slight moisture |
Humidity Tolerance | Low to moderate; avoid extreme dryness or sogginess |
Growth Rate | Generally slow, seasonal surges possible |
Why Transitional Succulents Matter
These “middle ground” plants are often misunderstood:
Watered like jungle plants → rot
Lit like cacti → sunburn
Planted in peat → suffocation
But when care is tailored to their hybrid habitat, they become some of the most resilient indoor succulents.

11. Frequently Asked Questions About Succulents
1. Are all succulents desert plants?
No. Succulence is an adaptive trait, not a taxonomic category. Many succulents — like Hoya, Peperomia, and Rhipsalis — evolved in tropical rainforests or cloud forests, not deserts.
2. Do all succulents use CAM photosynthesis?
No. While many arid species do use CAM to conserve water, others (like Peperomia or Hoya) use C3 photosynthesis or even switch modes depending on conditions. Succulence ≠ CAM.
3. Can I water all succulents the same way?
Definitely not.
Echeveria needs to dry out fully between waterings.
Hoya prefers consistent light moisture, not drought. Watering must align with root morphology and natural habitat.
4. Why is my succulent turning red, purple, or orange?
This is a stress response, not a “normal” color change. The plant produces pigments like anthocyanins to protect itself from:
Intense sun
Cold exposure
Drought or dehydration
It’s not always harmful — but it means conditions are suboptimal.
Think your succulent is sunburned — or just blushing?
Pigments like anthocyanins can protect against stress, but not all color changes are harmless.
5. Do succulents go dormant?
Arid species often enter full dormancy during dry or cold seasons.
Tropical types (e.g. Hoya, Peperomia) usually don’t — they just slow down under low light or indoor winter conditions.
6. Are succulents low-light plants?
Rarely.
Only a few, like Sansevieria (now Dracaena) or ZZ plant, tolerate dim rooms. Most succulents — especially desert types — need bright light to avoid stretching, rot, or leaf loss.
7. Is misting good for succulents?
No.
In arid species, misting increases the risk of rot, fungus, and leaf damage.
In jungle epiphytes, misting does not replicate ambient humidity and often causes problems. Focus on air humidity — not wet foliage.
Still wondering if misting ever makes sense? There are a few exceptions — and a lot of misconceptions.
8. Can I use cactus soil for all succulents?
No.
Desert types prefer mineral-heavy, gritty mixes.
Jungle succulents need organic, airy mixes with moisture retention.Choose soil based on root type and ecological origin, not the label.
9. Why won’t my Hoya bloom?
Common causes:
Insufficient light (they need it to flower)
Inconsistent watering or overwatering
Immaturity (some take years to bloom)
Environmental triggers missing (e.g. seasonal dryness or cooler temps)
Want your Hoya to bloom — and stay healthy long-term?
From watering habits to pest prevention and everything in between:
10. Can succulents grow in bathrooms?
Only if the light is strong enough.Humidity alone doesn’t help. Most succulents — especially desert types — will deteriorate in humid, low-light spaces unless near a bright window.
Still thinking in room categories like “bathroom plants”?
It’s not about rooms — it’s about conditions.
Why is my succulent growing tall and floppy?
If your plant is stretching, losing color, or growing thin and floppy — it's likely not getting the light it needs. This growth pattern, called etiolation, is your plant's SOS for better conditions.
➜ Read our full guide on etiolation to understand what causes it, how to fix it, and how to prevent it for good.
📌 Final Thought
Succulents don’t need shortcuts — they need contextual care.Understand where your plant comes from, how it evolved, and what its roots are telling you. Once you do, the rest of plant care becomes intuitive.
12. Conclusion: Origin Determines Outcome
Why “Succulent” Is Just a Trait — Not a Care Guide
By now, it should be clear: labeling a plant as a “succulent” tells you almost nothing about how to care for it. Succulence isn’t a category. It’s a survival adaptation — one that evolved independently in drastically different environments:
Blazing deserts
Foggy mountains
Rain-drenched jungles
Wind-swept cliffs
Some succulents thrive in direct sun with bone-dry roots. Others need damp moss, filtered light, and constant humidity. Grouping them under one care routine is a recipe for confusion — and failure.
📌The Core Takeaway
Stop asking: “What kind of succulent is this?”
Start asking: “Where did this plant evolve — and how does it survive there?”
That one shift reframes everything:
Watering routines become logical
Soil choices match root morphology
Dormancy signals no longer feel random
Leaf loss or stretching becomes explainable
You move from following care tips to understanding plant behavior
Your New Succulent Mindset
Success with succulents doesn’t come from shortcuts or one-size-fits-all rules.It comes from recognizing the plant’s evolutionary blueprint — and adapting your care accordingly.
Next time you bring home a new succulent, skip the generic label. Instead:
Check its native habitat
Learn its water-storage strategy
Look closely at the leaves, stems, and roots
Match your setup to its natural environment
When you understand why your plant looks and behaves the way it does, how to care for it becomes obvious.
That’s not just better care. It’s better growing.
Ready to put this knowledge into action?
➜ Browse all our succulents — from rugged Euphorbia to epiphytic Rhipsalis, we’ve got the right match for your conditions.
Curious about Hoyas?
➜ Explore our full Hoya collection — every species comes with care guidance based on where it evolved, not just how it looks.

Glossary: Succulent Physiology & Habitat Terms
Understand the science behind the differences
This glossary breaks down technical terms used throughout the article — from photosynthesis types to root adaptations — and explains how they relate to real-world succulent care. It’s designed to help both hobbyists and serious growers decode what’s really going on inside their plants.
Term | Definition |
Facultative Succulence | The ability of a plant to increase water storage in response to drought, even if it’s not permanently succulent in form. |
Obligate Succulence | Fixed structural succulence evolved in consistently dry habitats, seen in plants that always retain water-storing tissues. |
Anthocyanin Response | Pigment-based stress response triggered by drought, high light, or cold; often causes red/purple leaf coloration. |
Crassulacean Acid Metabolism (CAM) | A water-saving photosynthetic pathway where stomata open at night; common in many desert succulents like Aloe or Lithops. |
C3 Photosynthesis | The most common photosynthetic type in plants; stomata open during the day, typical for most jungle succulents like Peperomia or Hoya. |
Velamen | A specialized, spongy root covering found in many epiphytes like Rhipsalis and Hoya; absorbs and stores water from humidity or rain. |
Transpiration | The loss of water vapor from plant leaves through stomata; tightly regulated in succulents to reduce dehydration. |
Stomata | Tiny pores on leaf or stem surfaces that regulate gas exchange and water loss; their behavior (e.g. nocturnal in CAM) is critical in succulent adaptation. |
Pseudodormancy | A non-seasonal growth halt caused by unfavorable indoor conditions (low light, dry air), not tied to natural dormancy rhythms. |
Hydraulic Buffering | The internal use of stored water to maintain cell function during short droughts — a hallmark of succulent resilience. |
Epilithic Growth | Growth directly on rocks or in crevices, often seen in arid succulents; roots absorb condensed moisture or fog runoff. |
Thermoperiodism | Growth regulation tied to daily temperature differences; relevant for arid succulents with strong seasonal dormancy cues. |
Hydrophobic Substrate Behavior | A phenomenon where dry soil repels water, common in mineral mixes; requires gentle rewetting to avoid runoff. |
Phenotypic Plasticity | The ability of a plant to alter its growth form based on conditions like light or substrate — common in transitional succulents. |
Xeromorphy | A set of features (e.g. thick cuticles, compact form) that reduce water loss; key in desert-adapted succulents. |
Succulent–Epiphyte Syndrome | A trait cluster in jungle succulents (e.g. Hoya) combining mild succulence, aerial roots, and high humidity adaptation. |
Myrmecophily | Symbiosis with ants, as seen in Dischidia, which offers shelter in modified leaves in exchange for nutrient access and protection. |
Turgor Maintenance | Maintaining internal cell pressure to avoid wilting; crucial for plants like Peperomia during mild drought. |
Microclimatic Zonation | The fine-scale layering of light, humidity, and airflow in habitats — determines where different succulents can thrive. |
Obligate Epiphyte | A plant that grows entirely on other surfaces (e.g. tree bark), never rooting in soil — relies on air and rainfall for moisture. |
Stomatal Inversion | A CAM-specific trait where stomata open at night to limit water loss, in contrast to C3 plants that open during the day. |
Leaf Succulence Gradient | The spectrum of water-storage capacity in leaves — from mildly thickened (Peperomia) to fully succulent (Echeveria). |
Water Potential Gradient | The directional flow of water into roots based on osmotic balance; different between arid and jungle-adapted succulents. |
Substrate–Root Matching | The horticultural principle of pairing soil texture with root type — mineral substrates for taproots, airy for fibrous roots. |
Photoinhibition | A condition where light levels exceed a plant’s capacity to photosynthesize efficiently, often damaging low-light jungle succulents. |
Sources and Further Reading
Deepen your understanding beyond the basics
This article is backed by a wide range of academic, botanical, and horticultural references. If you want to explore the science behind succulent physiology, dormancy, root adaptations, or environmental niches in more depth, these sources offer a solid starting point. Some are technical; others are practical — all are worth your time if you want to move beyond generic plant care advice.
Journal Articles & Research Papers
Abdelhakim, T., Ettaqy, A., & Mderssa, M. (2023). Comprehensive review of morphological adaptations and conservation strategies of cactiform succulents. Biosystems Diversity, 31(3). https://doi.org/10.15421/012347
Adkin, T. (2021). Succulents in vogue. CactusWorld, 39(3), 237–241. JSTOR.
Arakaki, M., Christin, P. A., Nyffeler, R., Lendel, A., Eggli, U., Ogburn, R. M., ... & Edwards, E. J. (2011). Contemporaneous and recent radiations of the world’s major succulent plant lineages. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, 108(20), 8379–8384. https://doi.org/10.1073/pnas.1100628108
Evans, M. E. K., Smith, S. A., Flynn, R. S., & Donoghue, M. J. (2014). Insights on the evolution of plant succulence from a remarkable radiation in Madagascar (Euphorbia). Systematic Biology, 63(5), 697–711. https://doi.org/10.1093/sysbio/syu035
Fradera‑Soler, M., Flexas, J., & Carriquí, M. (2022). Elastic and collapsible: Current understanding of cell walls in succulent plants. Journal of Experimental Botany, 73(8), 2290–2307. https://doi.org/10.1093/jxb/erac054
Griffiths, H., & Males, J. (2017). Succulent plants. Current Biology, 27(17), R890–R896. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.cub.2017.03.021
Winter, K. (2019). Ecophysiology of constitutive and facultative CAM photosynthesis. Journal of Experimental Botany, 70(22), 6495–6508. https://doi.org/10.1093/jxb/erz002
Hanscom, Z. III, & Ting, I. P. (1978). Responses of succulents to plant water stress. Plant Physiology, 61(3), 327–330. https://academic.oup.com/plphys/article/61/3/327/6076276?login=false
Heyduk, K. (2022). Evolution of Crassulacean acid metabolism in response to the molecular function. Plant Physiology, 190(1), 19–34. https://academic.oup.com/plphys/article/190/1/19/6617367
Heyduk, K., Moreno-Villena, J. J., Gilman, I., et al. (2019). The genetics of convergent evolution: Insights from plant photosynthesis. Nature Reviews Genetics, 20, 485–493. https://www.nature.com/articles/s41576-019-0107-5
Koenemann, G. (2021). Cacti and succulents in the home – Learning to compromise. CactusWorld, 39(3), 243–245. https://www.jstor.org/stable/27308505
Males, J. (2017). Secrets of succulence. Journal of Experimental Botany, 68(9), 2121–2134. https://doi.org/10.1093/jxb/erx096
Mohanta, T. K., Arora, P. K., Mishra, A., et al. (2024). Physiology, genomics, and evolutionary aspects of desert plants. Journal of Advanced Research, 58, 63–78. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jare.2023.04.019
North, G. B., & Nobel, P. S. (1998). Water uptake and structural plasticity along roots of a desert succulent during prolonged drought. Plant, Cell & Environment, 21(7), 705–713. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1046/j.1365-3040.1998.00317.x
Ogburn, R. M., & Edwards, E. J. (2010). The ecological water‑use strategies of succulent plants. Advances in Botanical Research, 55, 179–225. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/B9780123808684000041
Ogburn, R. M., & Edwards, E. J. (2013). Repeated origin of three‑dimensional leaf venation releases constraints on the evolution of succulence in plants. Current Biology, 23(8), 722–726. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.cub.2013.03.029
Pérez‑Sánchez, R. M., Sánchez-Velásquez, L. R., & Martínez-Ramos, M. (2015). Growth and ecophysiology of succulent seedlings under the protection of nurse plants in the Southern Chihuahuan Desert. Ecosphere, 6(11). https://doi.org/10.1890/ES14-00408.1
Sayed, O. H. (1998). Phenomorphology and ecophysiology of desert succulents in eastern Arabiat. Volume 40, Issue 2, October 1998, Pages 177-189. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0140196398904347
Sivachandiran, S., Selvaskanthan, S., & Priyatharshini, P. (2024, October). Study on propagation of selected succulent plant species by using leaf cutting under different temperature conditions. 9th International Conference of Sabaragamuwa University of Sri Lanka. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/384615781
Stillwell, M. (1974). Cultivation of succulents. The Cactus and Succulent Journal of Great Britain, 36(3), 54–55. https://www.cactuspro.com/biblio_fichiers/pdf/CSJGB/CSJGB-v37_O.pdf
Edwards, E. J., & Donoghue, M. J. (n.d.). Pereskia and the origin of the cactus life‐form. The University of Chicago Press Journals. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16649155/
Books
Batanouny, K. H. (2001). Plants in the deserts of the Middle East. Springer. https://link.springer.com/book/10.1007/978-3-662-04480-3
Gibson, A. C. (1996). Structure-function relations of warm desert plants. Springer. https://link.springer.com/book/10.1007/978-3-642-60979-4
Nobel, P. S. (2003). Environmental biology of agaves and cacti. Cambridge University Press. https://www.cambridge.org/de/universitypress/subjects/life-sciences/ecology-and-conservation/environmental-biology-agaves-and-cacti?format=PB&isbn=9780521543347
Oudtshoorn, K. R. van, & Rooyen, M. W. (1999). Dispersal biology of desert plants. Springer. https://link.springer.com/book/10.1007/978-3-662-03561-0
Smith, S. D., Monson, R. K., & Anderson, J. E. (1997). Physiological ecology of North American desert plants. Springer. https://link.springer.com/book/10.1007/978-3-642-59212-6
Wickens, G. E. (1998). Ecophysiology of economic plants in arid and semi-arid lands. Springer. https://link.springer.com/book/10.1007/978-3-662-03700-3
Winter, K., & Smith, J. A. C. (Eds.). (1996). Crassulacean acid metabolism: Biochemistry, ecophysiology and evolution (Vol. 114). Ecological Studies. Springer. https://link.springer.com/book/10.1007/978-3-642-79060-7
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