Peace Lily Care (Spathiphyllum) — What It Is, What It Isn’t, and How to Keep It Thriving
- Foliage Factory
- Sep 1, 2024
- 32 min read
Updated: 6 days ago
Peace lily (Spathiphyllum spp.) has been a staple in homes, offices, and public spaces for decades. Its clean lines, long-lasting white spathes, and glossy evergreen leaves project calm rather than fuss.
Despite the name, it’s not a true lily (Lilium spp., Liliaceae). Botanically, peace lilies are aroids (Araceae), kin to anthuriums, philodendrons, and calla lilies. The “flower” is actually a spathe — a modified leaf — surrounding a spadix of tiny blooms, an arrangement designed to attract pollinators in its native habitat.
Most species are native to Central and South America — especially Colombia and Venezuela — with a few in the Malay Archipelago and the Philippines. This distribution, often misreported as “Southeast Asia,” explains their preference for filtered light, stable warmth, and evenly moist but well-aerated soils.
Quick realistic grower expectations:
Aspect | Summary |
Typical indoor size | Small cultivars mature around 40–60 cm high and wide, while giant selections like ‘Sensation’ can reach 1–1.5 m tall in good light |
Growth rate | Moderate in bright, indirect light; growth slows markedly in low light |
Blooming indoors | Peace lilies can bloom multiple times per year; the white spathes turn pale green after about 10 days and remain attractive for another month |
Longevity | Peace lilies are semi‑evergreen and can live for years indoors; individual leaves persist for months before yellowing |
Safety | All parts contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals; chewing causes mouth and throat irritation—keep out of reach of pets and children. |
Air‑purifying myth | The often‑cited 1989 NASA study was done in sealed chambers; later reviews show that natural ventilation cleans air far more effectively—real homes would need 10–1 000 plants/m² to match ventilation |
In this guide, you’ll get botanical background, cultivar selection, realistic care instructions, common mistakes, problem-solving, and sustainability choices — all drawn from research, not recycled folklore.
Contents:
1. Botanical Background & Diversity
Taxonomy & True Identity
Peace lilies belong to the genus Spathiphyllum, family Araceae, tribe Monstereae. The type species is Spathiphyllum wallisii Regel, described in Gartenflora 26: 289 (1877).
They differ fundamentally from true lilies (Lilium spp., Liliaceae) in flower structure, vegetative growth, and reproduction. The “flower” is a spadix — a rod densely packed with tiny true flowers — surrounded by a spathe, a modified bract that serves as a visual signal to pollinators.
🔗 Peace lilies are just one member of a fascinating plant family. Meet their aroid relatives in Aroids – The Fabulous Arum Family.
Native Range
The genus is centred in tropical Central and South America (Colombia, Venezuela, Brazil, Ecuador, Peru), with a smaller number of species native to the Malay Archipelago and Philippines. They are absent from most of mainland Southeast Asia despite frequent marketing claims.
Wild habitats range from shaded forest floors to bright, wet streambanks, influencing species-level differences in light tolerance.
Morphology — Understory Adaptations
Peace lilies are evergreen, clump-forming herbs with leaves arising directly from short, basal stems. Leaf blades vary from 10 cm in dwarf species to over 60 cm in giants, shaped lanceolate to broadly ovate, with a glossy cuticle to reduce water loss.
Inflorescences emerge on separate stalks; spathes open white or cream, later turning green in spathe greening, when chlorophyll forms and the spathe photosynthesises to support developing seeds. Fruits are small berries containing several seeds embedded in pulp.
Reproductive Ecology
In the wild, Spathiphyllum is primarily pollinated by small beetles (often Nitidulidae) and occasional flies that are attracted by the spadix’s mild scent and the warmth generated by thermogenesis in some species. The spathe acts as a visual guide, opening wide during peak receptivity to maximise visibility in low-light forest understories.
Indoor plants rarely set seed without manual pollination because these specialist pollinators are absent. Even when hand-pollinated, seed production is often sparse in hybrid cultivars, and viability can be low. Germination may take several weeks to months, and seedlings generally require 2–3 years before reaching flowering size.
Most commercial cultivars are propagated vegetatively (division) or through tissue culture, which ensures uniform traits and bypasses the slow, unpredictable process of seed production. While wild-type species may produce viable seed more readily, hybrid cultivars often have reduced fertility due to genetic incompatibilities between parent species.
Wild Species of Note
S. wallisii – A compact, evergreen herb up to 50 cm tall and wide with broadly lanceolate, dark-green leaves and a creamy-white spathe up to 15 cm long. It is native to Colombia and Venezuela and is the species most often found in hybrid ancestry.
S. cochlearispathum – Native to tropical rainforests of Central and South America, this species forms clumps from a rhizome and bears large, broadly ovate to lanceolate leaves with a glossy texture. Its inflorescence features a slender spadix and a white spathe up to about 10 cm long.
S. humboldtii – A rainforest species from Central and South America with large, glossy leaves and a white spathe that can reach about 10 cm. It grows from a rhizome in a dense rosette and thrives in humid, low-light conditions.
S. floribundum – Often called the snowflower peace lily, it is native to north-western South America (Panama east to Venezuela and south to Peru). Leaves are 12–20 cm long and 5–9 cm wide, and the greenish- or yellowish-white spathe is 10–20 cm long.
S. cannifolium – An evergreen, clump-forming shrub up to about 50 cm tall and 60–90 cm wide. It has large, glossy, oval dark-green leaves and a pale yellow to ivory spathe that folds backwards to reveal the slender, ivory spadix. Native to the Neotropics, it prefers semi-shade and moist soils.
S. ortgiesii – Native to Central and South American rainforests, this species has glossy, ovate-to-lanceolate leaves and a white spathe about 8–10 cm long that may be lightly fragrant. It grows from a rhizome in a compact rosette, making it suitable for container culture.
S. blandum – A smaller species from Central and South America with dark-green, leathery, oval leaves up to 30 cm long and a white spathe around 10 cm long. It forms a neat rosette, stays compact and is ideal for small indoor spaces.
Selected Cultivars & Indoor Performance
Cultivar | Size (H × W) indoors | Leaf length | Foliage traits | Light tolerance | Bloom tendency indoors | Growth speed | Cultivar |
‘Vivaldi’ | 40–60 cm × 60 cm (up to 75 cm × 30 cm in some cases) | 15–30 cm | Deep-green, undulate leaves; compact clumping habit; frequent white spathes | Bright-indirect best; tolerates moderate shade | Moderate; blooms regularly under adequate light | Medium | ‘Vivaldi’ |
‘Diamond’ | 60–80 cm × 40–60 cm (small pots may remain 35–40 cm) | ~20 cm | Lance-shaped leaves with cream-white variegated marbling | Needs bright-indirect light to maintain variegation; tolerates low light but loses pattern | Occasional ivory spathes; fewer blooms in deep shade | Moderate | ‘Diamond’ |
‘Sweet Silvana’ | 30–60 cm × 60 cm (large pots up to 80–90 cm) | 20–30 cm | Upright clumping habit; broad, rich-green leaves; white-to-cream spathes | Bright-indirect preferred; tolerates low light (fewer flowers) | Moderate; blooms intermittently with good light | Moderate | ‘Sweet Silvana’ |
‘Pearl Cupido’ | 30–60 cm × 60 cm | Up to 90 cm | Dark-green lanceolate leaves longer than plant height; clump-forming | Bright-indirect light; tolerates lower light but fewer spathes | Occasional blooms; more foliage-centric | Moderate | ‘Pearl Cupido’ |
‘Sensation’ (S. wallisii ‘Sensation’) | 150–180 cm × 90–120 cm | 40–60 cm | Huge, deeply ribbed dark-green leaves; robust stems | Moderate to low light; avoids direct sun | Low; flowers infrequently indoors | Slow to moderate | ‘Sensation’ (S. wallisii ‘Sensation’) |
‘Sweet Sebastiano’ | 130–160 cm × 100–130 cm | 30–40 cm | Large lance-shaped glossy leaves; upright habit; prominent white spathes | Bright-indirect preferred; tolerates low light (reduced flowering) | Moderate to high; can bloom year-round with adequate light and feeding | Moderate | ‘Sweet Sebastiano’ |
‘Sweet Lauretta’ | 80–100 cm × 50–85 cm | 37 cm | Large, glossy dark-green leaves; sweetly fragrant white spathes; moderately vigorous growth | Bright-indirect light; tolerates part-shade | Moderate; blooms mainly in spring–summer | Moderate to fast | ‘Sweet Lauretta’ |
‘Torelli’ | 30–50 cm × 50 cm | 15–25 cm | Compact, clump-forming; glossy dark-green leaves with tapered, rippled edges; mild fragrance | Bright-indirect light; tolerates low light (fewer blooms) | Moderate; white spathes appear multiple times per year | ‘Torelli’ |
Notes:
Height and spread ranges are typical for mature indoor specimens; younger or pot‑bound plants may remain smaller.
Leaf lengths are approximat
Many commercial cultivars are polyploids, with thicker leaves, larger cells, and often slower growth (Vanstechelman et al. 2009).
📌 Key Takeaway: Peace lily diversity spans tiny desk plants to floor-dominating statement specimens. Light tolerance, bloom habit, and growth speed vary by species and cultivar — matching these traits to your home’s conditions is critical for long-term success.
Browse our full range of peace lily cultivars to find one matched to your light and space:
2. Natural Habitat & Ecological Adaptations
Life Beneath the Rainforest Canopy
In their native range — from lowland forests in Colombia and Venezuela to mid-elevation valleys in the Philippines — peace lilies grow in understory habitats where sunlight filters through multiple canopy layers. Light levels are gentle, often below 5% of full tropical sun intensity, shifting in dappled patterns.
They occur from near sea level up to around 1200 metres in elevation. Higher-altitude forms often experience slightly cooler nights and show more tolerance for temperature fluctuations — a trait some cultivars have inherited.
Daytime temperatures typically sit between 18–30 °C year-round, nights are only slightly cooler, and humidity rarely drops below 70%. Airflow is light; the forest floor feels still, but moisture is constantly replenished through transpiration and rainfall.
💡 Indoor link: Aim for bright-indirect light, steady warmth, and moderate humidity. Protect from midday sun scorch and avoid placing them in cold drafts or in the path of strong, drying airflow.
Not Always Deep Shade
Although Spathiphyllum can survive in low light, species and cultivars vary in preference:
S. friedrichsthalii thrives along swampy riverbanks with part-day sun.
Variegated cultivars like ‘Domino’ and ‘Picasso’ need bright-indirect light to keep their patterns crisp.
Large green-leaf forms such as ‘Sensation’ and wild-type S. humboldtii handle deeper shade without losing vigour.
💡 Indoor link: Match cultivar to light conditions — place variegates closer to a bright window (filtered), while solid green forms are more flexible in placement.
Microhabitat Variation
In the wild, peace lilies grow in a variety of microhabitats:
Streambanks and swamps — roots often in saturated soil but with constant oxygenation from moving water.
Leaf-litter flats — evenly moist, fast-draining humus beneath taller vegetation.
💡 Indoor link: For plants descended from wetter-habitat species, slightly higher watering frequency can be tolerated if the substrate is well-aerated. For those from drier microhabitats, ensure brief surface drying between waterings.
Adaptive Leaf & Root Design
Peace lilies evolved traits to handle shifting light and moisture:
Broad, glossy leaves maximise low-light capture and reduce water loss.
Fibrous roots spread widely through loose, humus-rich substrates, tolerating brief flooding or drying if oxygen remains available.
Spathe greening — post-pollination, chlorophyll develops in the spathe, turning it into a photosynthetic organ that supports seed development.
Thermal response: Most cultivars narrow their leaves and slow growth above 29 °C; certain heat-tolerant lines (UF474-1, UF576-14) retain leaf width in warmer conditions.
UV resilience: Experimental work (Metwally et al. 2019) found that S. wallisii exposed to high UV-B levels showed reduced leaf size and chlorophyll content, but also activated antioxidant enzymes and protective pigments. This suggests peace lilies can adapt to occasional high-light exposure, though prolonged direct sun still risks leaf scorch indoors.
💡 Indoor link: Use an airy, organic-rich mix to maintain oxygen at the roots; avoid heat build-up near glass in summer.
Soil Chemistry & Structure
In native sites, peace lilies root into deep layers of decomposing vegetation that are:
Nutrient-rich from continuous organic breakdown.
Free-draining due to coarse particles and root channels.
Slightly acidic (pH 5.5–6.5), which optimises nutrient solubility.
Field and lab trials (Kakoei & Salehi, 2013) confirm best growth in moisture-retentive but well-aerated mixes. Pure perlite or perlite–sand blends can produce large leaves and strong roots with consistent feeding; coir or peat mixes mimic wild litter well, but rinse coir to remove salts before use.
💡 Indoor link: Choose a substrate that drains quickly but holds moisture, and keep pH in the slightly acidic range.
Natural Competition
In the understory, peace lilies grow among ferns, marantas, philodendrons, and juvenile palms, competing for fleeting shafts of light. This drives their ability to adjust leaf orientation and size in response to available light.
💡 Indoor link: If your plant produces longer, thinner leaves over time, it’s adjusting to reduced light — moving it slightly closer to a light source will restore compact growth.
Pollinator Ecology in Context
In the wild, Spathiphyllum is pollinated mainly by small beetles and flies drawn to the spadix’s scent. The spathe’s position and long lifespan in low light ensure pollinators can find it in dim conditions.
Once pollinated, peace lilies form small, fleshy berries that ripen to pale green or yellow. In their native habitats, these fruits are eaten by small birds or ground-dwelling animals, which disperse the seeds through droppings. Indoors, fruit set is rare without manual pollination, and seeds are usually hand-sown in controlled conditions.
💡 Indoor link: Without these pollinators, indoor seed production is rare. Manual pollination can be done if seed is desired, but most growers rely on vegetative division.
An Unexpected Resilience
In a 2022 study, S. kochii grew in multi-metal-contaminated soils without visible harm. Sodium silicate supplements reduced metal uptake by up to 42% while increasing biomass. This adaptability hints at phytoremediation potential in controlled projects but isn’t applicable for home environments.
💡 Indoor link: This resilience is why healthy peace lilies can bounce back from short-term stress once proper conditions are restored.
📌 Key Takeaway: Peace lilies evolved for bright shade, warm and humid air, rich but airy substrates, and gentle air movement. Indoors, mimic these patterns — not the exact rainforest — and your plant will show the same adaptability it uses to compete and survive in the wild.
3. Cultural Significance & Psychological Benefits
Symbolism in the Modern Era
The peace lily’s association with serenity, purity, and renewal is a modern cultural construct, not ancient lore. Historical records contain no evidence of Spathiphyllum in pre-colonial myth, ritual, or art. Its symbolism developed in Western horticulture and floral design from the late 19th century onward, after its introduction from South America.
💡 Common name origin: The “peace” in peace lily comes from the plant’s distinctive white spathe, a modified leaf that surrounds the spadix. Its upright shape and pure colour have long been compared to a white flag — the universal symbol of truce or peace. This visual link made it an appealing marketing name in Western horticulture from the late 19th century, and it remains central to its use as a gift plant for occasions associated with calm, remembrance, or reconciliation. Despite the name, peace lilies are not true lilies (Lilium spp.) but tropical aroids (Spathiphyllum spp.).
In Western contexts, it is a popular sympathy gift and a common sight at funerals and memorial services, where the evergreen foliage and recurring blooms have been reinterpreted to represent eternal life, rebirth, and the soul’s journey. The white spathe, reminiscent of a white flag, reinforces themes of peace and surrender.
Peace lilies have also become part of corporate gifting and office decor, chosen to convey stability, understated elegance, and a welcoming atmosphere. In some Asian markets, white flowers are more strongly associated with mourning than in Western home décor, so their symbolism can shift depending on cultural norms.
💡 Indoor link: Knowing these cultural differences can help you choose when and where to give or display a peace lily — what reads as peace and purity in one setting could carry a different weight in another.
Mindfulness and Everyday Calm
Peace lilies offer more than visual appeal — they can be part of a mindfulness routine. In a 2015 Japanese randomised crossover study (Lee et al.), participants who transplanted and cared for indoor plants, including Spathiphyllum, showed reduced sympathetic nervous activity and lower diastolic blood pressure compared to completing a computer task.
Other studies in indoor environmental psychology suggest plants can improve perceived comfort, attentiveness, and mood in workplaces, even when physiological measures remain unchanged.
Peace lilies are especially suited to mindfulness because they give clear visual feedback: drooping leaves signal thirst, and perked-up leaves within hours of watering provide a tangible sense of response and reward. Over time, these small care moments — checking soil moisture, noticing a new leaf unfurl — can help break digital focus and anchor attention in the present.
Do Peace Lilies Clean the Air?
Short answer: Not enough to matter for indoor air quality.
The belief comes from NASA’s 1989 Clean Air Study, which found Spathiphyllum wallisii could remove volatile organic compounds (VOCs) in sealed chambers. However:
A 2019 meta-analysis and data from the American Lung Association show ventilation — even by opening a window — dilutes VOCs hundreds of times faster than plants.
In real homes or offices, you’d need hundreds of large peace lilies per square metre to match the effect of normal air exchange.
Some marketing still uses the “air-purifying” label to sell plants, which can mislead buyers into treating peace lilies as décor-only air filters — sometimes placing them too far from light, which shortens their lifespan.
Peace lilies, like all green plants, do take in CO₂ during photosynthesis, but the amount is negligible for room air quality. Their true benefits are aesthetic, psychological, and symbolic — not mechanical air cleaning.
🔗 We’ve broken down the science behind plant air-purification claims in Do Houseplants Purify Air?.
Why This Still Matters
When you strip away exaggerated marketing claims, peace lilies remain worth growing for the most important reason of all: they’re simply rewarding plants. They offer the satisfaction of tending to a living thing, observing its growth over time, and learning how it responds to different care approaches.
From adjusting light and watering routines to experimenting with substrates and propagation, every stage offers a chance to build your skills and deepen your understanding. Watching fresh leaves unfurl and new spathes emerge is a direct result of your effort — and one of the most satisfying parts of the hobby.
4. Care & Cultivation — Creating the Right Conditions Indoors
🔆 Light — Translating the Forest Floor
Peace lilies evolved under rainforest canopies, where sunlight is filtered and gentle. Indoors, aim for bright, indirect light — such as an east-facing window or a few feet back from a bright south- or west-facing one with a sheer curtain.
They will survive in low light, but growth will slow, leaves may become thinner, and blooms will be fewer. Variegated cultivars like ‘Domino’ and ‘Picasso’ need brighter-indirect conditions to keep their patterns crisp, while large green-leaf types such as ‘Sensation’ tolerate dimmer areas without losing vigour.
Bloom trigger: Most cultivars need around 10,000–15,000 lux for several weeks with a 12–14-hour light period to initiate flowering. This is roughly the brightness of a well-lit room on a clear day where you could comfortably read without switching on a lamp. Indoors, this typically results in 1–3 flowering cycles per year, each lasting 4–8 weeks.
Why spathes turn green sooner: The ornamental white phase of the spathe is shorter under higher light intensity and warm temperatures, as chlorophyll production is triggered earlier. This shift helps the plant photosynthesise more during seed development, but for indoor growers it means the spathe may green within a week instead of two. Keeping light bright but indirect, and avoiding sustained heat above 28 °C, can help extend the pure-white stage.
Seasonal adjustment: Light levels shift with the seasons. In winter, move your peace lily slightly closer to a window to compensate for shorter, weaker days. In summer, pull it a bit further back to avoid excess heat.
➜ Visual cues:
Too little light: Long gaps between leaves, darker and softer foliage, no blooms for months.
Too much light: Yellow or pale patches, crisp edges, bleached areas on variegated sections.
Ideal light: Compact, richly coloured leaves and regular new growth.
❗ Caution: Avoid direct midday sun through glass — it can magnify heat and scorch foliage, especially on lighter variegated areas.
🔗 Not sure if your window provides the right light?
Understanding Window Orientations and Plant Selection will help you place your peace lily perfectly.
💧 Water — Even Moisture Without Stagnation
Keep the root zone evenly moist, letting the top 2–3 cm of mix dry before watering again. Always water thoroughly until excess drains from the pot’s base — shallow, frequent sips can leave dry pockets in peat-based mixes and weaken roots.
The plant’s dramatic droop is a built-in drought alert, but don’t make it your routine. Repeated wilting stresses tissues and shortens leaf life. Instead, check moisture with your finger, by lifting the pot, or with a wooden skewer — if it comes out clean and dry, it’s time to water.
Seasonal adjustment: In winter, when growth slows and evaporation is lower, water less often but still thoroughly. In summer or in heated, dry rooms, expect to water more frequently to maintain even moisture.
Substrate & pot influence: Bark- or perlite-rich mixes dry faster than dense peat blends, and terracotta dries faster than plastic or glazed ceramic. Adjust your schedule to the mix and pot type rather than the calendar.
Water quality: If your tap water is high in fluoride or chlorine, let it stand overnight, use rainwater, or switch to filtered water to reduce the risk of leaf-tip burn.
Aftercare & salt control: Always empty saucers or cachepots after watering to avoid stagnant water around roots. Every 1–2 months, flush the mix thoroughly to wash away fertiliser salts that can build up over time.
➜ Visual cues:
Underwatered: Limp, soft leaves that perk up within hours after watering.
Overwatered: Yellowing from the base upwards, persistently wet soil, or a sour smell from the pot.
🔗 Overwatering is the quickest way to lose a peace lily. Learn to spot, treat, and prevent it with Root Rot in Houseplants – Treatment & Prevention.
🌡️ Temperature & Humidity — Keep It Tropical
Peace lilies grow best between 20–28 °C. Growth slows noticeably below 15 °C, and chilling injury can occur at 7 °C or lower. They dislike sudden temperature swings — avoid placing them near heaters, radiators, air-conditioning vents, or drafty windows. A gentle night drop to around 18 °C is fine and mimics natural conditions.
If transporting a peace lily in cold weather, wrap it well — even a few minutes below 10 °C can damage foliage. In winter, avoid placing pots directly on cold floors or windowsills where the root zone can become much cooler than the air.
They’re comfortable in 40–60 % humidity, but leaf gloss, size, and overall vigour improve above 60 %. Indoor heating can drop humidity quickly in winter, so check regularly and boost it if it falls below 40 %. In high heat combined with low humidity, brown leaf edges can form even if soil moisture is fine. In summer, shield plants from harsh late-afternoon sun and ensure light airflow to help reduce heat stress.
Ways to maintain humidity: Group plants together, run a humidifier, or place them in naturally more humid rooms (provided temperature and light remain within range).
❗Warning signs:
Low humidity: Crispy leaf edges, curling tips, or slow unfurling of new leaves.
Sudden temperature stress: Drooping, yellowing, or collapse of newer leaves.
Excess humidity with stagnant air: Small dark or water-soaked spots on leaves from fungal issues — improve airflow while keeping humidity stable.
Note: Misting offers only short-lived relief and is not essential if the ambient humidity is stable. Any changes to temperature or humidity should be made gradually over several days to avoid shock.
🔗 Want to fine-tune humidity without guesswork? Mastering Humidity for Healthier Houseplants covers practical ways to keep your peace lily thriving.
🌱 Soil & pH — A Loose, Moist, and Airy Foundation
Mimic the loose, decomposing litter of their native habitat with a mix that:
Retains moisture without becoming compacted.
Drains freely to keep roots oxygenated.
Has a slightly acidic pH of 5.5–6.5 for optimal nutrient uptake.
A good all-round mix is 1 part rinsed coco coir to 1 part perlite or fine orchid bark. Perlite-forward blends encourage robust roots and large leaves if nutrients are supplied consistently. Some slow-release fertilisers will break down more quickly in warm, moist mixes — adjust feeding accordingly.
Pot and drainage: Plastic pots retain moisture longer, while terracotta dries faster — adjust watering to match. Whatever you choose, ensure at least one unobstructed drainage hole. Cachepots without drainage should be used only as decorative covers around a grow pot.
Root health: Healthy roots are firm and white to cream. Dark, mushy, or foul-smelling roots usually indicate compaction or overwatering — time to refresh the mix.
Moisture stabilising: A thin surface layer of fine bark or moss can help slow evaporation in dry rooms, but avoid thick, wet layers that keep the crown soggy.
Repotting: Refresh the mix every 1–2 years as organic matter breaks down and compacts. When potting up, choose a container only 2–4 cm wider than the old one to avoid excess water retention in unused soil.
🔗 Want to fine-tune your peace lily’s potting mix?
Read The Complete Aroid Substrate Guide: Match Mix to Roots for an in-depth look at how particle size, aeration, and moisture retention affect root health — and how to adapt your substrate to match your plant’s natural growth style.
🧪 Feeding — Support, Don’t Force
Feed lightly with a balanced, water-soluble fertiliser at ¼ strength every 6–8 weeks year-round, adjusting to growth rate. In low-light winter months, feeding can be reduced or paused if the plant’s growth slows noticeably, then resumed when new leaves emerge.
Avoid excess nitrogen, which can produce lush foliage at the expense of blooms, and note that excess phosphorus may suppress flowering in some cultivars. Balanced NPK formulas are generally best unless you are deliberately growing for foliage. Organic options such as seaweed extract or worm castings offer gentler, longer-lasting nutrition.
❗Nutrient issues:
Magnesium deficiency: Interveinal chlorosis (pale areas between veins); correct with a small dose of Epsom salts if confirmed.
Nitrogen deficiency: Pale new leaves and overall reduced vigour.
Potassium deficiency: Yellowing of older leaves from the tips inward.
Phosphorus deficiency (rare indoors): Purpling in older leaves.
Application tips: Always apply fertiliser to pre-moistened soil to reduce the risk of root burn, and avoid spilling concentrated solution on leaves or the crown. Every 1–2 months, flush pots with plain water to wash away built-up salts, especially in fine-textured mixes that hold nutrients longer.
🔗 Want to learn more about choosing the right feed for your plants?
Read Which Fertilizer Works Best for Your Houseplants? for a clear breakdown of fertiliser types, NPK ratios, and how to match them to different growth goals — from lush foliage to abundant blooms.
✂️ Grooming & Routine Maintenance
Wipe leaves monthly with a soft, damp cloth or microfiber gloves to remove dust and keep foliage breathing freely.
Skip commercial leaf shine products, which can clog pores — plain water works best.
While cleaning, check leaf undersides and along midribs for early signs of pests such as scale, mealybugs, or spider mites.
Trim yellowing or damaged leaves at the base — often just a sign of natural ageing — and remove spent spathes promptly. Cut their stalks as close to the crown as possible without damaging emerging growth, and clear away any debris around the crown to prevent trapped moisture and rot.
Sanitise tools before trimming to reduce the risk of disease spread.
Rotate the pot every few weeks for even light exposure and balanced growth.
In summer or after heavy flowering, a light tidy-up of older foliage can improve airflow and refresh the plant’s appearance.
🪴🪴🪴 Propagation — Simple Division
Divide when the plant is crowded or flowering less, ideally in spring or early summer when growth is active.
Remove the plant from its pot and gently tease apart the clumps.
Ensure each division has healthy, firm roots and at least 2–3 leaves.
Use a sharp, sanitised knife or shears to make clean cuts, minimising tissue damage.
Replant with the crown at or slightly above soil level to prevent rot, using a pot only slightly larger than the root mass.
Keep newly potted divisions in bright, indirect light and evenly moist (but not soggy) soil for several weeks. Avoid feeding until new growth appears.
Some leaf droop or slight yellowing after division is normal; if wilting worsens or blackening occurs, check for overwatering or crown injury. Large divisions may skip blooming for a season while re-establishing.
Seed viability in hybrids: Many commercial peace lily cultivars are interspecific hybrids with low natural seed fertility. Even when flowers are manually pollinated, seed set can be sparse and germination rates variable. As a result, most hobby growers find vegetative division far more reliable than seed propagation, while nurseries rely on tissue culture to maintain cultivar traits.
💡In commercial horticulture, micropropagation using temporary immersion bioreactor systems (Aka Kaçar et al. 2020) has increased efficiency, producing large numbers of uniform, disease-free plants while reducing labour compared to solid-medium culture. This is not practical for home growers but underpins the availability and affordability of modern cultivars.
🔗Want to explore more propagation options?
Read Propagating Houseplants: Comprehensive Methods, Tips, and Practical Examples for step-by-step guides to division, cuttings, layering, and more — with practical advice to improve success rates at home.
🥛 Semi-Hydroponics — An Alternative Approach
Peace lilies adapt well to LECA (lightweight expanded clay aggregate) or similar inert media, and the method can be especially useful in dry indoor climates. Transition during the plant’s active growth phase (spring or summer) so it can produce new water roots more quickly.
Expect some transition shock — older soil roots may die back before new water-adapted roots grow. When moving from soil, rinse roots thoroughly to remove all organic debris, as leftover mix can decay in LECA and foul the water.
Maintain a nutrient solution in a lower reservoir with an air gap between the water and most roots. Start with a weaker solution for the first 2–3 weeks to protect tender new water roots, then increase to normal semi-hydro strength. Monitor pH and nutrient strength, and change the solution every 2–4 weeks. Rinse LECA and the container with plain water every 4–6 weeks to prevent salt buildup and biofilm.
In cooler rooms, ensure the nutrient solution stays within a comfortable temperature range, as cold reservoirs can slow root activity. Algae in clear containers is harmless but can be reduced by blocking light.
❗Early stress signs: Temporary wilting or yellowing of older leaves can occur during adjustment and typically resolve as water roots establish. Once adapted, semi-hydro offers steady moisture, fewer soil pests, and more predictable watering.
🔗 Want a step-by-step conversion plan?
Read From Soil to Semi-Hydro: The Complete Guide to Transitioning Houseplants Without Killing Them for detailed instructions, troubleshooting tips, and everything you need to make the switch successfully.
🔗 If you grow in LECA or other inert media already, check out our Semi-Hydroponic Fertilizing Guide for nutrient tips tailored to water-based systems.
📌 Key Takeaway:
Match care to their rainforest adaptations — bright-indirect light, moist but airy substrate, light feeding, and stable warmth — and you’ll see healthy foliage and blooms several times a year.
5. Pests, Diseases & Common Problems
Peace lilies are naturally resilient, but stress from overwatering, poor drainage, prolonged low light, or nutrient imbalance makes them more vulnerable to pests and pathogens. This section covers how to identify issues early, correct them effectively, and prevent recurrence.
Fungal Diseases — The Main Threat Indoors ➜
1. Cylindrocladium root rot (Cylindrocladium spathiphylli)
⚠ Symptoms: Yellowing of lower leaves, sudden wilt despite moist soil, brown or reddish root lesions.
？ Cause: Waterlogged mix and poor root-zone aeration.
➜ Prevention: Use free-draining soil; never let pots sit in water; sterilise reused pots and tools.
✓ Treatment: Remove and discard severely infected plants; repot healthy divisions into fresh, sterile mix; commercial growers may use triflumizole.
2. Phytophthora root rot & leaf spot (Phytophthora parasitica)
⚠ Symptoms: Wilting, root dieback, black water-soaked leaf lesions.
？ Cause: Spread through contaminated water or potting mix.
➜ Prevention: Keep foliage dry, avoid splash watering, use sterile media.
✓ Treatment: Discard heavily affected plants; treat survivors with fosetyl-al or metalaxyl (where legal).
3. Myrothecium leaf spot (Myrothecium roridum)
⚠ Symptoms: Tan leaf spots with dark, circular spore pads (sporodochia), often on young leaves or tissue-culture stock.
➜ Prevention: Reduce handling, avoid splashing, keep foliage dry.
✓ Treatment: Remove infected tissue; where legal, apply thiophanate-methyl plus mancozeb.
4. Botrytis blight (Botrytis cinerea)
⚠ Symptoms: Grey mould on ageing spathes, petals, or damaged tissue; thrives in cool, still, humid rooms.
➜ Prevention: Remove fading blooms early; increase airflow.
✓ Treatment: Dispose of infected material; improve environmental conditions.
5. Opportunistic fungi (Rhizoctonia solani, Sclerotium rolfsii)
⚠ Symptoms: Crown rot at soil line, sudden collapse, visible mycelium or small sclerotia.
➜ Prevention: Avoid reusing unsterilised soil; maintain drainage.
Bacterial Diseases — Less Common but Serious ➜
1. Bacterial leaf spot (Xanthomonas campestris pv. dieffenbachiae)
⚠ Symptoms: Small, water-soaked spots at leaf edges with yellow halos.
➜ Prevention: Reduce overhead watering; improve airflow.
ay slow spread.
2. Pectobacterium soft rot
⚠ Symptoms: Foul-smelling, mushy lesions at base or on leaves; rapid collapse.
✓ Treatment: No cure — discard plant and disinfect pots/tools.
Viral Diseases — Rare but Incurable ➜
Impatiens necrotic spot virus (INSV) and tomato spotted wilt virus (TSWV)
⚠ Symptoms: Ring spots, distorted leaves, necrotic streaks, stunting.
Spread by: Thrips feeding on foliage.
Action: Destroy infected plants; control thrips.
Insect Pests — Manageable With Early Action
Mealybugs: White cottony clusters on stems and leaf undersides. Remove manually; treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil.
Scale insects: Brown, immobile bumps; scrape off or treat with horticultural oil.
Spider mites: Fine webbing, stippling; rinse foliage, raise humidity, use miticides if needed.
Thrips: Silvery streaks, black speck frass, distorted new leaves; isolate plants, use blue sticky traps, rinse foliage, rotate insecticidal soap with spinosad where legal, or introduce predatory mites.
Fungus gnats: Tiny flies from soil; larvae chew roots in overly wet mix. Let topsoil dry between waterings; use yellow sticky traps, BTI drenches, or beneficial nematodes.
❗Caution: Avoid applying oils or soaps in direct sun or >27–30 °C to prevent phytotoxicity.
🔗 Explore our Pest Control blog collection—packed with posts on how to prevent and treat every major pest—from aphids and mealybugs to spider mites and thrips. Browse trusted, plant-friendly solutions here:
Pest Control Resources at Foliage Factory
You'll find clear, reliable guides like:
Beneficial Insects for Natural Pest Control
How to Get Rid of Mealy Bugs on Plants
Spider Mites on Houseplants: Prevention, Detection & Treatment... and plenty more.
Abiotic Problems — Not Caused by Pests or Pathogens
Brown leaf tips: Low humidity, fluoride/chlorine in water, or fertiliser salt build-up.
Yellowing leaves: Natural ageing, nutrient deficiency, or root stress from overwatering.
Over- vs. under-watering check: If soil is wet and roots smell sour/brown → rot; if soil is dry and leaves are crisp → drought stress.
Interveinal chlorosis: Pale areas between veins, often magnesium deficiency — treat with ¼ tsp Epsom salt per litre once, then reassess in 2–3 weeks.
Reduced blooming: Low light, excess nitrogen, or overcrowded root systems.
Preventative Checklist
Drainage: Use a free-draining mix and never leave pots standing in water.
Sanitation: Disinfect pots/tools (10% bleach for 10 min or 70% isopropyl for 1–2 min) before reuse.
Splash control: Water at soil level; keep pots elevated off bare floors to reduce pathogen spread.
Quarantine: Isolate new plants for 2–3 weeks away from airflow paths to prevent pest dispersal.
Inspection: Check leaf undersides, crown, and soil surface weekly.
Airflow: Maintain gentle circulation to reduce fungal spore settlement.
Recovery Expectations
Once conditions are corrected, expect 2–6 weeks for firm, healthy new leaves to emerge. Damaged foliage will not heal — prune it out so energy goes into fresh growth.
📌 Key Takeaway: Most peace lily issues originate from excess moisture + low airflow. Fixing the cultural base prevents nearly all fungal, bacterial, and pest problems — and helps the plant recover faster when they do occur.
6. Toxicity & Safety — What to Know Before You Grow
Are Peace Lilies Toxic?
Short answer: Yes, but effects are usually mild.
All parts of Spathiphyllum contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals in specialised cells called idioblasts. When chewed or crushed, these crystals pierce soft tissues in the mouth, tongue, and throat, causing irritation.
❗ Don’t confuse peace lilies with true lilies. Spathiphyllum is not a true lily. True lilies (Lilium, Hemerocallis) can cause acute kidney failure in cats from tiny exposures, even pollen. Peace lily effects are generally limited to local irritation.
➜ Symptoms in Humans
Immediate burning or stinging in the mouth or lips
Swelling of lips, tongue, or throat
Difficulty swallowing or speaking
Occasionally mild nausea or vomiting after larger ingestions
Skin/eye contact: Sap can irritate skin and eyes. If sap touches skin, wash with soap and water. If it enters eyes, flush gently with clean water for 15 minutes and remove contact lenses; seek medical advice if irritation persists.
✓ Treatment: Rinse mouth thoroughly with clean water. Offer cold milk or yoghurt to help soothe irritation if tolerated. Do not induce vomiting. Seek urgent care if throat swelling worsens, drooling persists, breathing changes, or there is wheezing. When in doubt, call your local Poison Control.
➜ Symptoms in Pets
Cats and dogs may show:
Excessive drooling
Pawing at mouth or face
Reduced appetite or refusal to eat
Vomiting in more severe cases
Birds & small mammals: Parrots, rabbits, and rodents should be considered at risk — even small nibbles can cause irritation.
✓ Treatment: Rinse the animal’s mouth gently with water. Offer fresh water to drink. Do not induce vomiting unless a veterinarian advises it. Contact a vet or animal poison helpline if vomiting persists, facial swelling develops, breathing changes occur, or the pet seems unusually lethargic.
➜ Safety in the Home
Placement: Keep on shelves, stands, or hanging planters out of reach of children and pets.
Handling: Wear gloves when pruning; sap can irritate sensitive skin.
Hygiene: Wash hands and tools after handling; avoid touching eyes.
Disposal: Keep cut leaves/spathes out of pet access and dispose promptly.
Public spaces: In schools, clinics, or receptions, use elevated placement, discreet signage, and avoid low surfaces accessible to children.
Fabric care: Pollen and sap can stain fabric and porous stone — remove ageing spathes before they shed pollen; wipe spills quickly.
➜ What Peace Lilies Don’t Do
Peace lilies do not contain soluble oxalates or cardiac glycosides found in some highly toxic plants. The irritation they cause is local and temporary in most cases, not systemic poisoning.
📌 Key Takeaway: Peace lilies can cause short-lived oral and skin irritation in humans and animals if chewed or handled carelessly. With mindful placement, handling precautions, and awareness of who or what can access them, they remain safe for most homes and workplaces.
7. Sustainability & Ethical Growing Notes — Caring for the Plant and the Planet
➜ Peat — Benefits, Costs, and Trade-Offs
Why peat is used: Horticultural peat is lightweight, airy, moisture-retentive, and naturally sterile — an ideal base for root development in Spathiphyllum.
Environmental cost: Peatlands form over centuries and store vast carbon reserves. Harvesting requires draining bogs, which releases stored CO₂, destroys unique wetland habitats, and removes a resource that regenerates extremely slowly. Although horticultural use accounts for a small fraction of global peatland loss, the carbon released per hectare is significant.
Alternatives That Work for Peace Lilies
Coconut coir — Renewable by-product of coconut husks with excellent water retention and structure. Choose low-EC, Ca-buffered coir (EC < 0.5 mS/cm) pre-treated with calcium/magnesium to avoid potassium-induced nutrient lockout. Be aware desalination can produce brine waste and shipping adds CO₂.
Composted bark — Improves aeration and mimics coarse rainforest litter. Use only composted softwood bark; fresh bark can tie up nitrogen.
Quality green-waste compost — Adds nutrients and beneficial microbes; avoid immature or salty municipal compost indoors to prevent salt, weed, or pathogen issues.
Perlite or pumice — Inert aerators; perlite is light but dusty, pumice is heavier, reusable, and more stable over time.
Rice hulls — Renewable aeration material; breaks down in 1–2 years.
Biochar — Stable carbon source that improves cation exchange; pre-charge with fertiliser before mixing.
💡 Tip: Good peat-free mixes often combine coir, bark, worm castings or compost, and perlite or pumice to balance water retention and drainage.
➜ Water & Nutrient Stewardship
Use rainwater or filtered water for irrigation and avoid greywater containing detergent salts. In semi-hydro setups, never dump nutrient solution into storm drains — dispose via sanitary systems or onto outdoor soil away from waterways.
➜ Energy Use
If using grow lights, choose high-efficacy LEDs (≥ 2.0 µmol/J) on timers for 12–14 hours to reduce energy consumption.
➜ Ethical Sourcing
Most commercial peace lilies are propagated via tissue culture, avoiding wild collection and producing uniform, disease-free plants. Look for nurseries with Integrated Pest Management (IPM) programmes that favour biological controls and minimise chemical inputs.
➜ Reuse, Recycle, Refresh
Reuse pots and trays, washing and disinfecting before replanting (10% bleach for 10 min or 70% isopropyl alcohol for 1–2 min). Refresh potting mix every 1–2 years to restore aeration and nutrient balance. Compost old soil or add it to garden beds instead of sending it to landfill.
➜ Phytoremediation — Research vs. Reality
Some Spathiphyllum species, such as S. kochii, tolerate heavy-metal-contaminated soils in controlled studies. Supplementation with sodium silicate reduced metal uptake by 14–42% and increased biomass.
💡 Home reality: This does not mean peace lilies will meaningfully “clean” household soil or water. If a plant has been grown in contaminated media, do not compost it or reuse that soil — follow local hazardous-waste disposal guidance.
➜ Longevity = Lowest Footprint
While shipping and importation carry a carbon cost, a peace lily that thrives indoors for 5–10 years spreads that footprint over a much longer period than seasonal décor plants replaced every few months. By choosing a cultivar that suits your conditions and keeping it healthy long-term, you minimise waste and reduce the environmental impact per year of enjoyment.
📌 Key Takeaway: Sustainable peace lily growing means choosing ethically sourced plants, reducing reliance on peat, managing water and nutrients responsibly, reusing materials, and prioritising plant longevity over constant replacement.
8. Quick Reference Care Summary — Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum)
Category | Details |
|---|---|
Light | Bright, indirect light best (east window or 1–2 m from south/west with sheer curtain). Survives in low light but blooms less. Variegates need brighter-indirect to maintain patterns. Bloom trigger: ~10,000–15,000 lux for several weeks, 12–14 h/day. |
Water | Keep evenly moist; allow top 2–3 cm to dry before rewatering. Water thoroughly, avoid shallow “sips.” Empty saucers after watering. Use rain/filtered water if tap water is high in fluoride/chlorine. |
Temperature & Humidity | Optimal: 20–28 °C. Growth slows <15 °C; injury <7 °C. RH comfortable at 40–60%, best >60%. Protect from drafts, hot dry air, and sudden temperature swings. |
Soil & Pot | Moisture-retentive, free-draining mix; pH 5.5–6.5. Example: 1 part rinsed coir or peat + 1 part perlite/fine bark. Plastic pots hold moisture longer; terracotta dries faster. Repot every 1–2 years. |
Feeding | Light feeder: Balanced, water-soluble fertiliser at ¼ strength every 6–8 weeks. Avoid excess phosphorus (can reduce blooms). Correct Mg deficiency with ¼ tsp Epsom salt/L once; reassess in 2–3 weeks. Flush salts periodically. |
Grooming | Wipe leaves monthly. Remove spent spathes and yellow leaves at base. Sanitise tools before trimming. Rotate plant for even growth. |
Propagation | Divide when rootbound or blooming declines. Each division: roots + 2–3 leaves; crown at or slightly above soil level. Large divisions may skip blooming for one cycle. |
Semi-Hydroponics | Transition may cause temporary root loss. Maintain nutrient solution in reservoir with an air gap. Refresh every 2–4 weeks; block light to prevent algae. |
Pests & Problems | Pests: Mealybugs, scale, spider mites, thrips, fungus gnats. Diseases: Cylindrocladium, Phytophthora, Myrothecium, Botrytis. Abiotic: Brown tips (humidity/salts), yellow leaves (age/overwatering), reduced blooms (low light/N excess). Prevent with free-draining mix, sanitation, weekly checks. |
Toxicity | Mild oral irritation if chewed (humans, pets). Keep out of reach; wear gloves when pruning; wash hands/tools. Peace lily ≠ true lily — true lilies highly toxic to cats. |
9. Conclusion — The Reward of Knowing Your Plant
A peace lily (Spathiphyllum) doesn’t need myths or exaggerated claims to earn its place in your home. It is a plant built for the understory — resilient enough to survive less-than-perfect conditions, yet expressive enough to reward good care with lush foliage and long-lasting blooms.
By understanding its true origins — warm, humid forests with filtered light and living, airy soil — you know why it prefers bright-indirect light, steady moisture without stagnation, and a loose, slightly acidic mix. You’ve seen how its adaptations, from broad leaves to spathe greening, are rooted in survival strategies honed over millennia.
In homes and offices, the peace lily offers more than just decoration. It gives clear feedback to your care, adds a living focal point to a room, and carries cultural meanings that range from peace and renewal to enduring sympathy. These are not just ornamental qualities — they’re part of why this plant has become a global favourite.
If you match the right cultivar to your space, give it a suitable substrate, and keep up with gentle grooming, a single peace lily can live and bloom for many years. Division and sharing extend its life and reduce waste, making it as sustainable as it is beautiful.
Final formula for success:
Bright, filtered light + evenly moist, airy soil + warmth and moderate humidity + light feeding = healthy growth, clean foliage, and 1–3 flowering cycles a year.
Care for it with the same steadiness it shows in return, and you’ll have more than a plant — you’ll have a constant, living presence that responds to you, season after season.
Find your perfect match
From compact desk-friendly forms to statement floor plants, our peace lily selection covers every light level and room size. Explore the full range to choose the cultivar that fits your space and style.
10. Sources and Further Reading
Missouri Botanical Garden. (n.d.). Spathiphyllum. Tropicos. https://www.tropicos.org/name/40002667
POWO. (n.d.). Spathiphyllum Schott. In Plants of the World Online. Facilitated by the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew., https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30003632-2
Aka Kaçar, Y., Dönmez, D., Biçen, B., Erol, M. H., Şimsek, Ö., & Yalçın Mendi, Y. (2020). Micropropagation of Spathiphyllum with Temporary Immersion Bioreactor System. Turkish Journal of Agriculture and Forestry. Retrieved from https://agrifoodscience.com/index.php/TURJAF/article/view/3364
Altland, J. (2024). In defense of peat. Greenhouse Management. Retrieved from https://www.greenhousemag.com/article/peat-defense-james-altland/
American Lung Association. (2023, February 20). Actually, houseplants don’t clean the air. Retrieved from https://www.lung.org/blog/houseplants-dont-clean-air
Chen, J., McConnell, D. B., Henny, R. J., & Everitt, K. C. (1995). Cultural guidelines for commercial production of interiorscape Spathiphyllum (peace lily) (EP161). University of Florida IFAS Extension. Retrieved from https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/EP161
Clemson University Cooperative Extension. (2022, February 15). Peace lily (HGIC 1512). Retrieved from https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/peace-lily/
Drexel University College of Engineering. (2019, November 6). Study: Actually, potted plants don’t improve air quality. Retrieved from https://drexel.edu/news/archive/2019/november/potted-plants-do-not-improve-air-quality
Elbohy, A. (ca. 2015). Response of peace lily (Spathiphyllum wallisii) to growth regulators. [Research summary]. Retrieved from https://www.semanticscholar.org/paper/RESPONSE-OF-PEACE-LILY-(SPATHIPHYLLUM-WALLISII-TO-Elbohy/f7385f45b54b4271cdffd4e124c163c938d5b3c7
Grijalba, P. E., & Palmucci, H. E. (2007). Cylindrocladium spathiphylli, a causal agent of root and crown rot of Spathiphyllum wallisii in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Phyton, 76, 199–204. Retrieved from https://www.techscience.com/phyton/v76nall/36878
Kakoei, F., & Salehi, H. (2013). Effects of different pot mixtures on Spathiphyllum wallisii growth and development. Journal of Central European Agriculture, 14(2), 140–148. Retrieved from https://jcea.agr.hr/en/issues/article/1242
Katakam Mounika, Panja, B., & Saha, J. (2017). Diseases of peace lily [Spathiphyllum sp.] caused by fungi, bacteria and viruses: A review. The Pharma Innovation Journal, 6(9), 103–106. Retrieved from https://www.thepharmajournal.com/archives/2017/vol6issue9/PartB/6-9-21-558.pdf
Lee, M., Lee, J., Park, B., & Miyazaki, Y. (2015). Interaction with indoor plants may reduce psychological and physiological stress by suppressing autonomic nervous system activity in young adults: A randomized crossover study. Journal of Physiological Anthropology, 34(21). https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC4419447/
Liu, K., Dai, C., Li, C., Hu, J., Wang, Z., Li, Y., Yu, F., & Li, G. (2022). Plant growth and heavy metal accumulation characteristics of Spathiphyllum kochii cultured in three soil extractions with and without silicate supplementation. International Journal of Phytoremediation, 25(4), 524–537. https://doi.org/10.1080/15226514.2022.2092059
Metwally, S. A., Shoaib, R. M., Hashish, K. I., & El‑Tayeb, T. A. (2019). In vitro ultraviolet radiation effects on growth, chemical constituents and molecular aspects of Spathiphyllum plant. Bulletin of the National Research Centre, 43(17). https://bnrc.springeropen.com/articles/10.1186/s42269-019-0126-6
National Parks Board (NParks) Singapore. (n.d.). Spathiphyllum wallisii. FloraFaunaWeb. Retrieved from https://www.nparks.gov.sg/florafaunaweb/flora/2/4/2465
Norman, D. J. (1996). Diseases of Spathiphyllum (Research Report RH‑96‑5). University of Florida, Central Florida Research and Education Center. Retrieved from https://mrec.ifas.ufl.edu/foliage/resrpts/rh_96_5.htm
North Carolina State University Cooperative Extension. (n.d.). Spathiphyllum (peace lily). NC State Extension Plant Toolbox. Retrieved from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/spathiphyllum/
Pavlović, I., Tarkowski, P., Prebeg, T., Lepeduš, H., & Salopek‑Sondi, B. (2019). Green spathe of peace lily (Spathiphyllum wallisii): An assimilate source for developing fruit. South African Journal of Botany, 124, 54–62. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.sajb.2019.04.014
Poison Control (U.S. National Capital Poison Center). (n.d.). Are peace lilies poisonous? Retrieved from https://www.poison.org/articles/peace-lily-223
Rattanasuk, S., & Phiwthong, T. (2020). Evaluation of the antibacterial activity of Spathiphyllum wallisii extracts against human pathogenic bacteria. Pakistan Journal of Biological Sciences, 23, 63–68. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33274872/
Swathi, B., Bhavani, K., Hyma, A., Sai Deepika, L., Udaya, J., Asif, S. K., Deepthi, N., &
Swathi, P. (2024). A review on Spathiphyllum: Pharmacognostic and pharmacological approach. World Journal of Advance Healthcare Research, 8(6), 211–214. Retrieved from https://www.researchgate.net/publication/381638355_A_REVIEW_ON_SPATHIPHYLLUM_PHARMACOGNOSTIC_AND_PHARMACOLOGICAL_APPROACH
University of Florida IFAS Extension. (2019). Florida foliage house plant care: Spathiphyllum (EP477). Retrieved from https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/EP477
Vanstechelman, I., Vansteenkiste, H., Eeckhaut, T., Van Huylenbroeck, J., & Van Labeke, M.‑C. (2009). Morphological and anatomical characterisation of chemically induced polyploids in Spathiphyllum wallisii. Acta Horticulturae, 836, 141–146. https://www.ishs.org/ishs-article/836_10
Wolverton, B. C., Douglas, W. L., & Bounds, K. (1989). Interior landscape plants for indoor air pollution abatement (NASA Technical Memorandum 101766). National Aeronautics and Space Administration. Retrieved from https://ntrs.nasa.gov/citations/19930072988
Yang, S., Hu, M., Wu, R., Hou, Z., Zhang, H., He, W., Gao, L., & Liao, F. (2024). Genetic evidence of SpGH9A3 in leaf morphology variation of Spathiphyllum ‘Mojo’. Genes, 15(2), 146. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11431335/